2 Days in Skopje
Friday call to prayer below our hotel window in Old Town Skopje, North Macedonia.
Our Tour of the Balkans
During phase 2 of our travels, in the summer of 2018, we had planned a tour of the Balkans, and one of the countries on the list was North Macedonia. Unfortunately, our plans changed when Di became ill in Denmark at the start of our trip, and we had to build up some recovery time.
When planning commenced for phase 3 of our 50-country trip in 50 months, the Balkans were back on the table.
Time was running out, and we were behind in our country count. We also wanted to experience, firsthand, how each country differed from the others.
We were about to learn more about how each country had developed after the split of Yugoslavia and the subsequent civil war in the nineties. This post will describe how we traveled to Skopje and suggest things to do during a two-night stay.
The Old Bazaar in Skopje, North Macedonia
Sofia Skopje by Bus
The bus from Sofia, Bulgaria, to Skopje in North Macedonia departed at 7 am. Our tickets had been secured from the central bus station in Sofia the day before. The bus company does not allow credit card payments, so bring cash.
We were low on local currency, LEV, but we could pay with Euros. €17.00 per ticket, $19.40. Minutes before departure, I decided to run for the bathroom, and I almost missed the bus. With a stern look, Di said; Please - do not do that again.
It was an older bus. The seatbelts did not buckle, the reclining seats did not recline, and the air conditioning vent above us was broken and held together with duct tape.
None of these issues stopped us from crossing the border to country number 38 about two and a half hours after leaving Sofia. The bus stopped for ten minutes to allow for a quick bathroom break.
The landscape was beautiful and reminded us of the Okanagan Valley in Canada where we lived for more than twenty years. The fall colors of rusts, yellows, and browns were on display in a mountain landscape with rolling hills, orchards, and wineries.
Statues and fountain by the Stone Bridge in Skopje, North Macedonia
You notice a difference in the homes along the highway right after crossing the border. The homes in North Macedonia seem to have a smaller footprint with cinder block construction and more tiled roofs.
The drive to Skopje is 245 kilometers, 152 miles, and just under five hours before arriving at the Skopje Bus Station.
Aen Hotel
We decided to walk because our hotel was only one and a half kilometers from the bus station. The weather was fine, and we figured, why not?
In hindsight, a cab may have been a better choice given the unseasonably warm weather. We arrived around noon and lucked out. I believe we ended up with the nicest room at the hotel, at the end of the hall with a view of the town square.
We booked two nights at the Aen Hotel, a central location in the Old Town, and paid $35.00 per night. The room rate included WiFi and a decent breakfast buffet, but only the coffee fell short of expectations.
The buffet included bread, jam, cheese, soft cheeses, eggs, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, and cereals. To compensate for the lack of good coffee, we brought our own Nescafé to the breakfast buffet.
A double decker bus in Skopje
The Old Bazaar
As we found ourselves in the middle of the Old Town, the urge to explore had us on our feet right away, heading toward the Old Bazaar.
We were surprised at the scale of the Bazaar, the second largest in Europe after Istanbul. The fresh vegetables looked stunning, and the market was crowded and very busy.
People parked just about anywhere possible near the bazaar: on the sidewalk, in the middle of the road, rear wheels on the road, and front wheels on the sidewalk. Anywhere you could find a spot.
At one end of the bazaar, we found one of the largest shoe markets we had ever seen. There were sneakers, sneakers, and more sneakers in any shape or size imaginable.
The vegetable market at the bazaar in Skopje
Skopje Old Town
We wandered aimlessly for a while outside the market and only got slightly lost. Our offline Google map assured us we were not completely lost. Some retail shops and streets reminded us of places we have visited in the Middle East.
The Old Town is a vibrant and colorful place to explore. It is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets with a blend of restaurants and retail shops. Several gold/jewelry stores are located here, alongside dress and bridal shops.
We needed cash and coffee, and we found both near our hotel. A messenger call with our daughter Emma was a pleasant surprise.
She is completing a master’s program at Roskilde University in Denmark and called to report that she had aced her first exam. We were extremely proud and, for a moment, wished we were closer to celebrate the result with her.
We wrapped up the day with a kebab dinner near our hotel. The dinner was okay, but did not wow us. The cost was $15.75, including soft drinks and a tip.
Di stops to see a cabbage knife cutting demo near Macedonia Square and the Stone Bridge
Skopje Self-Guided Walking Tour
Armed with a city map from the hotel front desk and our offline Google map, we set out for a self-guided walking tour of Skopje. The first stop was Kale Fortress, overlooking the Vardar River.
The fortress is located at the highest point in the city near the Old Town and provides a good overview of Skopje. According to our offline Google map, the entrance was down the hill and around the bend, but this is not correct.
A few other visitors we recognized from breakfast were coming back from the direction we were headed, with puzzled looks on their faces—no entrance that way, they said in broken English.
Later in our travels, another couple we met in a grocery store in Mostar used the term “Google moments.” These happen when you find yourself in a location Google Maps has directed you to, but it is not where you want to be or should be.
A pop up book store at Macedonia Square in Skopje
This usually results in a change of plans to get back on track. We looked at the hill we had just descended and decided to swing by the fortress on our way back to the hotel at the end of our day.
Macedonia Square
Macedonia Square is a central gathering point in Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia. In the square and in a few other areas of the city, you can find numerous statues, monuments, and impressive buildings.
136 structures were built between 2010 and 2014 at a cost exceeding $700 million as part of the 2014 Skopje project.
The project was controversial and seen as a political statement. An attempt at nation-building while revitalizing the city at the same time. It does leave one with an impression, albeit one that is hard to define.
Bridge construction over the Vardar River in Skoje, North Macedonia
There are many different architectural styles, perhaps clashing at times. On one corner, you find a building from the period when Macedonia was part of Yugoslavia, and then down the street, they have built a downsized copy of L’Arc de Triomphe from Paris.
We found the square a bit rough around the edges. To be fair, there are sections under renovation or not fully completed yet.
Unfortunately, we also spotted quite a bit of garbage in the streets. We agreed it may be the time of year, and the city center might be more appealing on a nice summer day.
Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, North Macedonia
Memorial House of Mother Teresa
Mother Teresa lived in Skopje from 1910 to 1928, and one of Skopje’s latest landmarks is a memorial house where Mother Teresa was baptized in central Skopje. It is not a large museum, but it was most certainly worth a visit.
The story of Mother Teresa’s life and mission is told through interactive photo displays. The Memorial House also has a small chapel. Make sure to add this to your list of things to see in Skopje.
Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, North Macedonia
Bohemian Street in Skopje
In search of a late lunch, we headed to Bohemian Street. We had read that it is an area of the city with quaint cafes and restaurants.
However, when we arrived at Bohemian Street, we were a bit disappointed, as everything was closed. Traveling off-season, you have to be prepared for this, as it will happen from time to time.
There were other options in the area, and we set out to find something suitable. Several places served drinks, but no food. After walking through a few streets, we stumbled upon Skopski Merak. We ordered traditional Macedonian dishes and enjoyed a splendid lunch with excellent service.
To start, we had a carrot, cabbage, and beet salad. Di savored a borscht-like soup, and I had pastrmajlija, a Macedonian-style oval-shaped pizza. The local beer and wine went down quite well with it. The total cost was $19.00.
An old Yugo parked near Bohemian Street in Skopje
Skopje City Park
Our excellent lunch provided us with new energy and we continued our walk into Skopje City Park. A live performance in the distance drew us in.
The city park is a wonderful green area surrounding the Todor Proeski Arena near the Vadar River. This is a great place for a Saturday afternoon stroll. The talented performers kept us engaged for a couple of songs.
The dark clouds inevitably turned to rain and we ducked from tree to tree on our way back as our umbrella, the one we have been toting all over the world, was tucked away in our bags at the hotel. Seeking shelter, we skipped the Kale Fortress and view the city view.
Fall colours in the park along the Vardar River in Skopje, North Macedonia
Skopje to Ohrid
Our next destination was Lake Ohrid, in the southwest of North Macedonia, and we opted to get there by bus. We'll talk more about that trip in our next post. On our arrival day in Skopje, we learned that you should not carry your luggage that far, so we booked a taxi at the front desk to the bus station.
An older gentleman showed up in a filthy old cab. The front desk had given us an approximate rate. There was no meter, so when we got out of the cab after a very short ride, Di held up a few bills in the local currency.
She handed over the first bill, and then the driver just pulled the second one out of her hand. I do not think we were cheated, but it was an interesting moment.
The Stone Bridge and Archaeological Museum of Macedonia in Skopje
Final Thoughts
Skopje was our first stop in a former Yugoslavian country, and we were unsure what to expect. We had read a couple of blog posts, but Skopje surprised us in other ways that we had not anticipated.
Highlights included the Friday call to prayer right outside our hotel room and the Old Bazaar in the Old Town (feature photo in this post). The excellent lunch we enjoyed near Bohemian Street was also memorable.
The weather was not the best for our self-guided tour, and as we were in Skopje out of season, this may have affected our impression of the areas surrounding Macedonia Square.
Last but not least, the Memorial House of Mother Teresa was an educational stop. We learned something new about an important historical figure. We always enjoy learning as we travel.
Sneakers at the old bazaar in Skopje
Travel Tips
North Macedonia is a candidate to join the EU, and its currency is the Macedonian denar. Most places prefer cash, and it is often the only way to pay.
We took out cash at an NLB Banka ATM near the entrance to the Old Town. We always decline the option to secure a rate in Canadian dollars as banks charge a higher rate on the spot.
The water is safe to drink in Skopje.
Be prepared, as smoking is allowed in restaurants in North Macedonia. This may take some getting used to if you travel from a country that no longer permits smoking in public areas.
Macedonia Square in Skopje
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Photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I used Fujifilm film simulations for some of the photos.
