2 Days in Sofia
St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia, Bulgaria
Sightseeing in Sofia, Bulgaria
Our Gateway to the Balkans
Bulgaria was recommended to us by Antonia, an acquaintance in Vancouver. The country had been on our radar in phase 2 of our travels in the summer of 2018 until Di took ill, and all our plans changed.
Sitting in Malta, looking at flights to the Balkans, a Wizz Air flight to Sofia popped up, and it seemed like the perfect gateway to the Balkans.
With fourteen countries to go and the clock ticking in our quest to travel to 50 countries in 50 months, we were planning to visit six Balkan countries in about a month.
St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia, Bulgaria
Admittedly, we knew very little about Sofia and Bulgaria before arrival. We turned to our Lonely Planet Eastern Europe guidebook and relied on suggestions from our Airbnb hosts.
We had a couple of days to get acquainted with Sofia.
Flying to Sofia
There are daily flights to Sofia from all major centers in Europe. We found our Wizz Air flight from Malta on Skyscanner for €57.00 each, $65.00. We have had good experiences with Wizz Air; this flight was no exception.
We took a taxi from the airport to our Airbnb, close to the city center, and paid €7.00, $8.00. Traffic was quite heavy as we arrived during the after-work rush hour.
It was immediately evident that Sofia is a modern European center. The traffic and billboards lining our route to the downtown core reflected this.
Soccer fame graffiti on our apartment building in downtown Sofia
The Urban Azur Airbnb
In Sofia, we looked for a place where we could do laundry, work on the blog for a few hours, and be within easy walking distance of the downtown sights.
The Urban Azur with Airbnb did the trick. Communication with our host before and during our stay was the best we have ever experienced, and we have stayed in quite a few Airbnbs by now.
They sent us very clear instructions on how to access the apartment for self-check-in and a list of suggestions for what to do while in Sofia. The outside of the building (photo above) appeared rough on the surface, but the amenities were great once inside, and we quickly felt at home.
The yellow cobble stone streets of Sofia, Bulgaria
Restaurant Agarta
Our first priority was dinner, so we dropped our bags and headed out. We went straight for the main pedestrian street, a few blocks from our Airbnb.
Even though it was early November, it felt like a late summer evening, and people were out on the town for dinner and drinks in countless establishments.
Many restaurants had permanently covered patios extending into the street. UEFA Championship football/soccer was blaring from the screens in almost every restaurant. Each restaurant was similar to the next, nice, but a bit mainstream, so we kept walking.
Wandering back through the narrow streets, we found a super cozy place called “Agarta.” We settled at a nice table along the sidewall and ordered from our friendly server, who has family in Toronto.
Morning commute on the tram in Sofia, Bulgaria
A long table was set next to ours, and more and more friends arrived—a group roughly our age, perhaps celebrating a birthday. We were not sure.
It was so lovely to see everyone hugging and greeting one another. The conversation was nonstop. At times like this, we miss our friends. Imagine if our friends could pop in and experience this with us. It was a great atmosphere for a weeknight.
Day 1
In the morning, I set out to find an ATM and breakfast supplies. I spent some time familiarizing myself with the small streets around our apartment. It was a very quaint area with several family shops.
I found milk at a small convenience store, a loaf of bread at the Dutch bakery, and a pastry I could not resist at another bakery. After breakfast at the apartment, we were ready to explore Sofia.
Superb weather for our “Free Sofia Tour” guided walking tour in Bulgaria
Sofia Free Walking Tour
The Free Sofia Tour runs 365 days a year. The start time varies depending on the time of year you visit Sofia. April-October: 10 am, 11 am, 2 pm, and 6 pm. November-March: 11 am, 2 pm, and 6 pm.
We opted for the 11 am tour and met the group at the Palace of Justice. Yana, a filmmaker, was our guide for the two-hour tour.
Passionate about her hometown, she did an excellent job. The tour featured 20+ places of interest in Sofia, and the perfect weather was an added bonus.
St. Nedelya Church in Sofia, Bulgaria
St. Nedelya Church
St. Nedelya Church has a long history and is famous for a rather diabolical attack in 1925. Members of the communist party assassinated a high-ranking military official. The funeral was held at St. Nedelya Church two days later.
Meanwhile, bombs had been placed under the roof, and during the service, the bombs were set off in a terrorist attack. More than 200 were killed and another 500 injured, most of whom were prominent politicians and military elites.
Sofia Regional Historical Museum
Sofia Regional Historical Museum and The Mineral Springs
We stopped in the center of Sofia to view the Central Mineral Baths building. Sofia has long been known for its Turkish bathhouses, and there are many natural mineral hot springs surrounding the city.
The building functioned as a public bathhouse until 1986, when it was closed due to deteriorating conditions.
Unfortunately, there are no functioning bathhouses at the moment. The building was partially renovated and currently houses the Sofia Regional Historical Museum—a good place to start for a historical overview of the area.
People fill their water bottles at the natural mineral hot springs
Across from the Central Mineral Baths building, there is a public fountain area with approximately ten to fifteen spouts from which warm mineral water can be tapped.
People gather in the square and fill large jugs. The actual mineral content from the different sources is posted daily.
Banya Bashi Mosque
The Banya Bashi Mosque is Sofia's only functioning mosque. It was completed in 1566 and is built over the city's natural springs. Banya Bashi means many springs.
Banya Bashi Mosque in Sofia, Bulgaria
Our guide, Yana, expressed pride in the fact that many people of different religions can thrive side by side without problems in Sofia.
Former Communist Headquarters
As a reminder from another time, the National Assembly building, completed in 1955, housed the former Communist Headquarters. The building is now mainly used for government offices. The architecture is quite distinctive and draws the eye.
Former Communist Head Quarters in Sofia, Bulgaria
Rotunda of St. George
The Rotunda of St. George is considered the oldest building in Sofia and is located in a semi-enclosed courtyard behind the Sofia Hotel Balkan. Built in the 4th century by the Romans, the church is famous for its frescoes and location amid ruins.
The church is a few meters below street level, effectively illustrating how each era of the city was built upon the last.
It became a mosque under Ottoman rule in the 16th century, and the frescoes were painted over. They were rediscovered and restored in the 20th century.
Rotunda of St. George in Sofia, Bulgaria
Day 2
The mosquitoes followed us from Malta to Sofia, and we woke up with new bites to prove it. Insect repellent and after-bite were on our shopping/to-do list.
During our travels, one activity that can take up a considerable amount of time but is often overlooked is planning the next move(s).
We booked a hotel in Old Town Skopje, North Macedonia, and decided to find the bus station to pre-book a ticket. You can also do this on the day of travel, but we have found that we sleep better when booked in advance.
This would also allow us to revisit some of the highlights from the walking tour the day before. We packed a lunch and headed out.
Once again, our route took us down Vitosha Boulevard, the main pedestrian street, towards St. Nedelya Church. This time we explored the archaeological sites further, taking the time to read the information plaques. We passed the Rotunda of St. George and peeked inside.
As we crossed the bridge towards the bus and train terminals, an elderly gentleman overheard us speaking Danish and called out to us in Danish, “Be careful heading in that direction.”
Bulevard Knyaginya Maria Luiza, Sofia, Bulgaria
He said there were some shady characters in this area and went on to tell us he had lived in Denmark for a while. We thanked him, kept walking, and noticed what he meant as we approached the station.
We found the ticket window and ordered two tickets, Sofia to Skopje for the following morning, departure at 7 am.
Make sure to have cash on hand in Sofia. The bus company declined our wish to pay by credit card. We did not have enough LEV, the local currency, but we came up with €34.00, $38.75 for two tickets. Relief.
Bus tickets were secured, and our next item on the to-do list was to enjoy our picnic lunch near the St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral. Google Maps provided a route slightly off the beaten path, a great way to get a glimpse of the less touristy parts of the city.
St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia
A few minutes in, a homeless man spotted my camera held down to my side. I had no intentions of photographing him, but he did not know this and flew up and started yelling at me: No photos, no photos.
He came right up to me, but I assured him I did not take any photos of him and tried to show him the screen on my camera. Wisely, Di pulled me on and we continued on our way.
As we neared St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral, we walked by a couple of schools just as recess began. Kids were everywhere, and one group of teens stood out. A young guy in a wheelchair had a hard time keeping up. One of his buddies circled back to help him along. What a wonderful gesture to witness.
I spotted a couple of younger boys so engulfed in their iPhone games that they did not register being photographed. This scene could have played out in Canada or many other countries, for that matter. It was everyday life.
School recess equals game time, Sofia, Bulgaria
A park bench by the cathedral served as our picnic table, and after lunch, I snapped a few frames. Our Airbnb host had suggested we grab a drink at the top-floor bar of the Sense Hotel. I was skeptical, but I am now a fan and suggest you do this in Sofia.
The first photo in this post was captured from the Sense Hotel. It is easy to forget that Sofia is close to the mountains, and you notice right away from the top floor.
Vitosha Mountain, 2,290 m, 7.513 ft, is 45 minutes from the city. From the Sense Hotel, you also get a nice view of some of Sofia's main attractions, and the coffee was splendid.
Street vendor near St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia, Bulgaria
On our way back to our Airbnb, we crossed the National Assembly building, the former communist party headquarters, again. The walkways and tunnels under the square are cleverly done.
When the public subway network in Sofia was expanded, more archeological treasures were uncovered. Now, there are exhibits and ruins you can visit and view as you walk through to catch your train. This is very accessible public history.
We returned to the apartment for a few chores, laundry, photo editing, and to prepare for an early departure the following morning.
We had our sights set on a cozy restaurant by our apartment, but unfortunately, they did not accept credit cards, and we did not want to take out more cash as we were leaving the next morning. Hence, we returned to “Agarta” for a second dinner and were not disappointed.
The former Communist Head Quarters as seen from the lower level exhibits beneath the square in Sofia, Bulgaria
Travel Day
Our original plan was to take the metro to the bus station, but as we approached the subway entrance, a taxi was waiting. We negotiated what I thought was a good estimate, and we were on our way.
When we arrived at the bus station, the meter read a lower fare than agreed upon. I tried to get the lower rate, but the cab driver sternly insisted on €7.00. I paid, shook my head, and headed for the bus.
We need more practice with the taxi game. Some cities are tricky when it comes to taxis, and the language barrier becomes an issue. Some taxi drivers are good. They start the meter, and you pay at the end. Some drivers just go. You cannot see a meter, and then what?
You try to get an estimate and suspect you may pay too much. Sometimes, you negotiate the price, but there is no meter to indicate whether you were off the mark or not. We always try to research fares before we hop in a cab so we have an idea of the cost.
The covered walkway at the former communist headquarters in Sofia, Bulgaria
But things do not always go according to plan. When all the stars are aligned, it plays out well. A nice cab, a friendly driver, and a reasonable fare meet our expectations, which most often results in a tip.
Often, it is not the final amount that is a source of frustration but rather the feeling of being taken advantage of as a tourist and foreigner.
Final Thoughts
We are really happy we stopped in Sofia. The weather and food were great, and our Airbnb host was super-efficient. The Free Walking tour introduced us to a city we knew very little about.
Obviously, there is so much more to Bulgaria, and based on what we experienced in Sofia, we would not hesitate to come back and explore more.
Tram tracks a the Palace of Justice in Sofia, Bulgaria
Travel Tips
Bulgaria is in the EU, and the currency is the LEV. Most places prefer cash, and we found many small, cozy restaurants that only accept cash. We took out cash upon arrival at a bank ATM.
The water is safe to drink. Sofia has many natural mineral springs, and the water also tastes okay.
We had access to a kitchen at our Airbnb and prepped some of our meals, including breakfast, picnic lunch, and dinner. If you are traveling on a budget, this is a great way to save on meals.
The yellow trams of Sofia, Bulgaria
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Photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I used Fujifilm film simulations in this article, namely Acros, Velvia, and Eterna.
