2 Days in Sofia
St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia, Bulgaria
Sightseeing in Sofia, Bulgaria
Our Gateway to the Balkans
Bulgaria was recommended to us by Antonia, an acquaintance in Vancouver. The country had been on our radar in phase 2 of our travels in the summer of 2018 until Di took ill and all our plans changed.
Sitting in Malta, looking at flights to the Balkans, a Wizz Air flight to Sofia popped up and it seemed to be the perfect gateway.
With fourteen countries to go and the clock ticking in our quest to travel to 50 countries in 50 months, we were planning to visit six Balkan countries in about a month.
St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia, Bulgaria
Admittedly, we knew very little about Sofia and Bulgaria before arrival. We turned to our Lonely Planet, Eastern Europe guidebook, and relied on suggestions from our Airbnb hosts.
We had a couple of days to get acquainted with Sofia.
Flying to Sofia
There are daily flights to Sofia from all major centers in Europe. We found our Wizz Air flight from Malta on Skyscanner for €57.00 each, $65.00. We have had good experiences with Wizz Air and this flight was no exception.
We took a taxi from the airport to our Airbnb, which was very close to the city center, and paid €7.00, $8.00. Traffic was quite heavy as we had arrived early evening.
It was immediately evident Sofia is a modern European center. The traffic and billboards lining our route to the downtown core gave this away.
Soccer fame graffiti on our apartment building in downtown Sofia
The Urban Azur Airbnb
In Sofia, we looked for a place where we could do laundry, put in a few hours on the blog, and be within easy walking distance to the downtown sights.
The Urban Azur with Airbnb did the trick. Communication with our host prior to and during our stay was the best we have ever experienced, and we have stayed in quite a few Airbnbs by now.
They sent us very clear instructions on how to access the apartment for self-check-in and a list of suggestions for what to do while in Sofia. The outside of the building (photo above) appeared rough on the surface but once inside the amenities were great and we quickly felt at home.
The yellow cobble stone streets of Sofia, Bulgaria
Restaurant Agarta
Our first priority was dinner so we dropped our bags and headed out. We went straight for the main pedestrian street a couple of blocks from our Airbnb.
Despite the fact it was early November, it felt like a late summer evening and people were out on the town for dinner and drinks in countless establishments.
Many restaurants had permanently covered patios extending into the street. UEFA Championship football/soccer was blaring from the screens in almost every restaurant. Each restaurant was similar to the next, nice, but a bit mainstream, so we kept walking.
Wandering back through the narrow streets we found a super cozy place, “Agarta”. We settled at a nice table along the sidewall and ordered from our friendly server who has family in Toronto.
Morning commute on the tram in Sofia, Bulgaria
A long table was set next to ours and more and more friends arrived. A group roughly our age. Perhaps a birthday. We were not sure.
It was so nice to see everyone hugging and greeting one another. The conversation was non-stop. At times like this, we miss our friends. Imagine if our friends could pop in and experience this with us. A great atmosphere for a weeknight.
Day 1
In the morning I set out to find an ATM and breakfast supplies. I spent some time familiarizing myself with the small streets around our apartment. It was a very quaint area with several family shops.
I found milk at a small convenience store, a loaf of bread at the Dutch bakery, and a pastry I could not resist at another bakery. After breakfast at the apartment, we were ready to explore Sofia.
Superb weather for our “Free Sofia Tour” guided walking tour in Bulgaria
Sofia Free Walking Tour
The Free Sofia Tour runs 365 days a year. The start time varies depending on the time of year you visit Sofia. April-October: 10 am, 11 am, 2 pm, and 6 pm. November-March: 11 am, 2 pm, and 6 pm.
We opted for the 11 am tour and met the group at the Palace of Justice. Yana, a filmmaker, was our guide for the two-hour tour.
Passionate about her hometown she did an excellent job. The tour featured 20+ places of interest in Sofia and the perfect weather was an added bonus.
St. Nedelya Church in Sofia, Bulgaria
St. Nedelya Church
St. Nedelya Church has a long history and is famous for a rather diabolical attack that took place in 1925. Members of the communist party assassinated a high-ranking military official. The funeral was held at St. Nedelya Church 2 days later.
Meanwhile, bombs had been placed under the roof and during the service, the bombs were set off in a terrorist attack. More than 200 were killed and another 500 injured, most of whom were prominent politicians and military elites.
Sofia Regional Historical Museum
Sofia Regional Historical Museum and The Mineral Springs
In the center of Sofia, we stopped to view the Central Mineral Baths building. Sofia had long been known for its Turkish bathhouses and there are many natural mineral hot springs surrounding the city.
The building functioned as a public bathhouse until 1986 when it was closed due to deteriorating conditions.
Unfortunately, there are no functioning bathhouses at the moment. The building was partially renovated and currently houses the Sofia Regional Historical Museum. A good place to start for a historical overview of the area.
People fill their water bottles at the natural mineral hot springs
Across from the Central Mineral Baths building, there is a public fountain area. There are approximately ten to fifteen spouts from which warm mineral water can be tapped.
People gather in the square and fill large jugs. The actual mineral content from the different sources is posted daily.
Banya Bashi Mosque
The Banya Bashi Mosque is the only functioning mosque in Sofia. It was completed in 1566 and is built over the natural springs in the city. Banya Bashi means many springs.
Banya Bashi Mosque in Sofia, Bulgaria
Our guide, Yana, expressed pride in the fact many people of different religions are able to thrive side by side without any problems in Sofia.
Former Communist Head Quarters
A reminder from another time, the National Assembly building housed the former Communist Head Quarters when it was completed in 1955. The building is now mainly used for government offices. The architecture is quite distinctive and draws the eye.
Former Communist Head Quarters in Sofia, Bulgaria
Rotunda of St. George
The Rotunda of St. George is considered the oldest building in Sofia and is located in a semi-enclosed courtyard behind the Sofia Hotel Balkan. Built in the 4th century by the Romans, the church is famous for its frescos and location amid ruins.
The actual church is a few meters below street level, effectively illustrating how each era of the city was built upon the last.
It became a mosque under the Ottoman rule in the 16th century and the frescos were painted over. They were rediscovered and restored in the 20th century.
Rotunda of St. George in Sofia, Bulgaria
Day 2
The mosquitos followed us from Malta to Sofia and we woke up with new bites to prove it. Insect repellant and after-bite were on our shopping/to-do list.
Once on the road, one of the activities that can take up a considerable amount of time, but is often overlooked, is the process of planning the next move(s).
We booked a hotel in old town Skopje, North Macedonia, and decided to find the bus station to pre-book a ticket. You can also do this on the day of travel but we have found that we sleep better when booked in advance.
This would also give us a chance to revisit some of the highlights from the walking tour the day before. We packed a lunch and headed out.
Once again, our route took us down Vitosha Boulevard, the main pedestrian street towards St. Nedelya Church. This time we explored the archaeological sites further, taking the time to read the information plaques. We passed the Rotunda of St. George and peeked inside.
As we crossed the bridge towards the bus and train terminals an elderly gentleman overheard us speaking Danish and called out to us, in Danish; be careful heading in that direction.
Bulevard Knyaginya Maria Luiza, Sofia, Bulgaria
There are some shady characters in this area, he said and went on to tell us he lived in Denmark for a while. We thanked him, kept walking, and noticed what he meant as we got closer to the station.
We found the ticket window and ordered two tickets, Sofia to Skopje for the following morning, departure at 7 am.
Make sure to have cash on hand in Sofia. The bus company declined our wish to pay by credit card. We did not have enough LEV, the local currency, but we were able to come up with €34.00, $38.75 for two tickets. Relief.
Bus tickets were secured, and our next item on the to-do list was to enjoy our picnic lunch near the St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral. Google maps provided a route slightly off the beaten path. A great way to get a glimpse of the less touristy parts of the city.
St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia
A few minutes in, a homeless man spotted my camera held down to my side. I had no intentions to photograph him but he did not know this and flew up and started yelling at me; no photos, no photos.
He came right up to me but I assured him I did not take any photos of him and tried to show him the screen on my camera. Wisely, Di pulled me on and we continued on our way.
As we neared St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral we walked by a couple of schools just as recess began. Kids were everywhere and especially one group of teens stood out. A young guy in a wheelchair had a hard time keeping up. One of his buddies circled back to help him along. What a wonderful gesture to witness.
I spotted a couple of younger boys so engulfed in their iPhone games, they did not register being photographed. A scene that could have played out in Canada or many other countries for that matter. Everyday life.
School recess equals game time, Sofia, Bulgaria
A park bench by the cathedral served as our picnic table and after lunch, I snapped a few frames. Our Airbnb host had suggested we grab a drink at the top-floor bar of the Sense Hotel. I was a bit skeptical but I am now a fan and suggest you do this when in Sofia.
The feature photo in this post was captured from the Sense Hotel. It is easy to forget that Sofia is located close to the mountains and from the top floor you notice right away.
The Vitosha Mountain, 2,290 m, 7.513 ft, is located 45 minutes from the city. You also get a nice view of some of the main attractions in Sofia and the coffee at the Sense Hotel was splendid.
Street vendor near St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia, Bulgaria
On our way back to our Airbnb we crossed the National Assembly building, the former communist party headquarters again. The walkways and tunnels under the square are cleverly done.
When they were expanding the public subway network in Sofia, more archeological treasures were uncovered. Now there are exhibits and ruins you can visit and view as you walk through to catch your train. Very accessible public history.
Back to the apartment for a few chores, laundry, photo editing, and prep for an early departure the following morning.
We had our sight set on a cozy restaurant by our apartment but unfortunately, they did not accept credit cards and we did not want to take out more cash as we were leaving the next morning. Hence, we returned to “Agarta” for a second dinner and were not disappointed.
The former Communist Head Quarters as seen from the lower level exhibits beneath the square in Sofia, Bulgaria
Travel Day
Our original plan was to take the metro to the bus station but as we approached the subway entrance there was a taxi waiting. We negotiated what I thought was a good estimate and we were on our way.
When we arrived at the bus station the meter read a lower fare than agreed upon. I tried to get the lower rate but the cab driver sternly insisted on the €7.00. I paid, shook my head, and headed for the bus.
We need more practice with the taxi game. Some cities are so tricky when it comes to taxis. The language barrier becomes an issue. Some taxi drivers are good. They start the meter and you pay at the end. Some drivers just go, you cannot see a meter, and then what?
You try to get an estimate and suspect you may pay too much. Sometimes you negotiate the price but there is no meter to indicate if you were off the mark or not. We always try to research fares before we hop in a cab so we have an idea of the cost.
The covered walkway at the former communist head quarters in Sofia, Bulgaria
But things do not always go according to plan. When all the stars are aligned it plays out well. Nice cab, friendly driver, and a reasonable fare, in line with our expectations, which most often results in a tip.
Often it is not the final amount that is a source of frustration but rather the feeling of being taken advantage of as a tourist and foreigner.
Final Thoughts
We are really happy we made a stop in Sofia. The weather was great, the food was awesome, and our Airbnb host was super-efficient. The Free Walking tour introduced us to a city we knew very little about.
Obviously, there is so much more to Bulgaria and from what we experienced in Sofia we would not hesitate to come back and explore more.
Tram tracks a the Palace of Justice in Sofia, Bulgaria
Travel Tips
Bulgaria is in the EU and the currency is the LEV. Most places prefer cash and we found many small, cozy restaurants that only accept cash. We took out cash upon arrival at a bank ATM.
The water is safe to drink. Sofia has many natural mineral springs and the water tastes okay as well.
We had access to a kitchen at our Airbnb and prepped some of our meals including breakfast, picnic lunch, and dinner. If you are traveling on a budget this is a great way to save on meals.
The yellow trams of Sofia, Bulgaria
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Photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I used Fujifilm film simulations in this article, namely Acros, Velvia, and Eterna.
