Old Town Ohrid
Samuel’s Fortress in Old Town Ohrid, North Macedonia
3 Days in Old Town Ohrid, Lake Ohrid
Our Tour of the Balkans
Our tour of the Balkans continued to Ohrid in North Macedonia. Old Town Ohrid was a draw with its fairytale-like houses, cobblestone streets, and appealing location on Lake Ohrid.
As we headed south from Skopje and moved closer to the Adriatic Sea, we were hoping for a few more days with warm weather despite traveling in November.
Our plan was to explore the Old Town, enjoy some local cuisine, and spend a day or two catching up on travel planning and the blog.
The Old Town and Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
Bus From Skopje to Ohrid Bus
We gave ourselves plenty of time to catch a 10 a.m. bus from Skopje to Ohrid and took a cab from our hotel to the bus station. We would normally pre-book our tickets, but we took a chance this time.
It paid off nicely. The ticket attendant suggested we catch the 9 a.m. bus, leaving 5 minutes later, instead of waiting for the 10 a.m. bus. We quickly paid the 500 Macedonian denars each, $9.00, and darted to the platform.
We boarded the full-size modern coach and settled in for the ride through the mountains. The scenery was phenomenal with a plethora of fall colors.
A gorgeous day along the shoreline at Lake Ohrid by the Church of St. John at Kaneo
A bit of sun, a bit of cloud, and a bit of rain. The journey is approximately 170 kilometers and about three hours in duration.
We made a 15-minute coffee/bathroom stop at the summit on our way through the mountains. As we were getting closer to Ohrid, we noticed a police presence along the highway. We later learned that the President of North Macedonia was meeting his counterparts from Serbia and Albania.
Arriving in Ohrid, we met the nicest older cab driver who knew our destination well. He told tales of Ohrid and highlighted what we should not miss on the short ride to Villa Jovan.
The Ancient Macedonian Theatre of Ohrid
Villa Jovan Guest House
Villa Jovan is a quaint guest house in the Old Town, our choice for accommodation in Ohrid. It has a friendly host and is in a perfect location.
When we arrived, our room was not quite ready, so we left our bags and explored the area for half an hour before we were able to settle into a super cozy room. We had a view of the streets below, but could not see the lake.
We enjoyed the atmosphere at Villa Jovan, but be prepared for tight quarters, a narrow staircase, and a tiny bathroom, all part of the charm. Breakfast was included, but we had to enjoy it at a nearby restaurant, owned by the same family.
On day three, we purchased a small travel kettle for Turkish coffee and some Nescafe so we could start the day with a coffee in our room. Coffee/tea is key to us for a good start to a travel day. We booked three nights and paid $36.00 per night.
Our choice of accommodation in Ohrid. Villa Jovan.
Getting Acquainted With Ohrid
The first afternoon, we strolled along the boardwalk in the Old Town and located our breakfast spot. As we approached the main pedestrian street, Boulevard Macedonia Educators, the sounds of a protest pierced the air.
The march was a response to the presidential visit. It was loud with fireworks and chants, but it disappeared as quickly as it appeared.
Fruit Box, a modern health food outlet along the main street, quickly became one of our favorite stops. For those who know me well, I have been accused of having an obsession with oatmeal. Yes, an oatmeal/fruit combo with almond milk for lunch. It was just what I needed.
A friendly young lady attended the store, and we chatted for a while. She was headed to Toronto in the spring to attend college. We were so thrilled with the food and service that we frequented The Fruit Box three times during our short visit.
Protest March at Boulevard Macedonia Educators in Ohrid, North Macedonia
Dining in Ohrid
For our first dinner in Ohrid, we walked 100 meters down the street and picked an Italian Restaurant, Leonardo Pizza. We shared a salad and enjoyed a pasta dish, had drinks, and, of course, tiramisu for dessert. The service and atmosphere were great, and the total came in at $16.00.
Ohrid Self-Guided Walking Tour
We were awake at the crack of dawn. Unfortunately, the internet was down, and there was no coffee; great motivation to get you out of bed. Still, an hour before the breakfast restaurant opened, we found a downtown cafe and enjoyed coffee and free wifi under a heater while watching the city wake up slowly.
Thrilled by the promise of blue skies and fair weather, we set out on our self-guided walking tour. Armed with a map of the main attractions, we were ready to explore.
Walking the walls at Samuel’s Castle, Ohrid, North Macedonia
Samuel’s Fortress
We zigzagged our way uphill in the direction of Samuel’s Fortress. Instantly charmed by the architecture, narrow streets, and quaint atmosphere of Old Town Ohrid.
The temperature had risen to the high teens, and we could not believe our luck. The entrance fees to the fortress were 60 Macedonian denars each, $1.10.
Ohrid Fortress, or Tsar Samuel’s Fortress, is one of the largest fortification constructions in North Macedonia. Located on Ohrid Hill 100 meters above Lake Ohrid, it offers impressive views of the lake to the south and the town of Ohrid to the north.
The fortress has been destroyed and rebuilt throughout history, dating back to 209 BC.
Diana with a black labrador retriever at the Ancient Theatre in Ohrid
Ancient Theatre of Ohrid
On our walk from the fortress to the Ancient Theatre of Ohrid, we enjoyed the company of a kind black Labrador retriever. Built in 200 BC, the Ancient Theatre is in a perfect location between the hills, which equals great acoustics.
After renovations, the outdoor theatre has been used for plays, concerts, operas, and ballet performances. During Roman times, it was also used for gladiator fights.
Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon
As we walked the grounds around the Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon, we were approached by a local man who appeared to be a tour guide. It took a split second to realize he was not an official guide, and we declined his services.
Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon
When we left the grounds, he muttered in a disgruntled voice, “It is atrocious what happened here. You should hear the story.” Perhaps another time.
Church of St. John at Kaneo
If you have been researching North Macedonia, you have probably stumbled upon a photo of the Church of St. John at Kaneo, the Instagram highlight of Ohrid.
The Church of St. John at Kaneo is located on the hill above Kaneo Beach with a magnificent view of Lake Ohrid. The construction date is unknown, but it is likely the 13th century. We walked the grounds and had the site almost to ourselves.
The low November sun beaming over Lake Ohrid at the Church of St. John at Kaneo
Lunch Break at Kaneo
One of our most memorable highlights from Ohrid, and perhaps the best lunch during our 5050 travel project, was our lunch break at Kaneo Restaurant, located below the Church of St. John. It is an unassuming restaurant on the water’s edge.
The business was slow on this pristinely beautiful fall day. We ordered the Macedonia plate, which included tomato, marinated zucchini and eggplant, roasted paprika, sheep cheese, dill, ajvar, pindzur, garlic dip, prosciutto, and olives.
The view from Kaneo Restaurant of Lake Ohrid
As we waited for our food, a small motorboat delivered fresh supplies to the restaurant. I was hanging out on the dock when a neighbor came for a visit and offered to help tie his boat to the dock.
The background music was soft jazz, and after lunch, we leaned back in our chairs and soaked up the afternoon sun before ordering coffees and tiramisu to finish off.
We lingered much longer than we usually would for a lunch stop. The food and service were excellent. Stray kittens came to our table and we happily shared a few bites.
The Macedonia plate served at the Kaneo Restaurant included tomato, marinated zucchini and eggplant, roasted paprika, sheep cheese, dill, ajvar, pindzur, garlic dip, prosciutto, and olives
From Kaneo Beach, it is an easy walk back to town along the boardwalk. We wrapped up our self-guided walking tour at the Saint Sofia Orthodox Church and the Church of St. Nikola Gerakomija, which are located around the corner from one another and very close to our guest house.
Rain Day / Blog Day / Maintenance Day / Travel Planning
More and more so, we schedule workdays into our itinerary for blogging and travel planning, and let us call our visit to Harizma Massage Studio, personal maintenance. Di has had a persistent issue with pain in her right foot, and all the walking we have been doing probably aggravates it.
Kaneo Restaurant along Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia
Through an online search, we found a physiotherapist who does sports massage and booked half-hour appointments for each of us.
We met at a downtown hotel and drove to the clinic. She also works with the local handball team and is very good. My back and neck massage was run-of-the-mill, but Di’s foot treatment was superb and gave her some much-appreciated relief.
Walking along the boardwalk on Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia
After our massage, we found a café near our guest house and pulled out our laptops to work for a couple of hours. The weather forecast had called for rain, and sure enough, the skies opened up as expected—such a contrast from the sunshine the day before.
We went back to the room for a short rest and then to finalize the details for our next move—Albania, it is. We booked accommodation in Tirana, Berat, and Gjirokaster. Another trip to the ATM proved necessary as we had to pay cash for our bus tickets from Ohrid to Tirana.
Church St. Nikola Gerakomija in Ohrid, North Macedonia
Dinner was at Viva Ksantika, another cozy place near our guest house. We had More North Macedonian specialties for a total cost of 625 MKD, or $12.00, including a tip.
We made a final visit to the Fruit Box, where we arranged to have breakfast there, as our bus was scheduled to leave at 7 a.m. the following morning before the breakfast restaurant opened.
Final Thoughts
We had a great time in Ohrid, and we lucked out with amazing weather for our day of exploring the area. Sometimes, the weather forecast works in your favor. We struck a nice balance between work and pleasure and used the rainy day to get some work and travel planning out of the way.
The distinct homes of Ohrid, North Macedonia
Travel Tips
North Macedonia is a candidate to join the EU, and its currency is the Macedonian denar. Most places prefer cash.
The water is safe to drink in Ohrid
Be prepared that smoking is allowed in restaurants in North Macedonia. This may take some getting used to if you travel from a country that no longer permits smoking in public areas.
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The photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have made use of Fujifilm film simulations in this article.
