3 Days on the Island of Samsø, Denmark
Hiking near Ballebjerg, Samsø
A Three-Day Getaway to the Quaint Island of Samsø in Denmark
We have lived in Denmark for almost three decades and visited numerous times since moving to Canada and yet, we had never been to Samsø. I am not sure why we procrastinated for so long but we were about to find out that we had been missing out on a hidden gem.
Samsø is a quaint island located in the sea of Kattegat between Jutland and Sealand in Denmark and is known for its laid-back atmosphere, stunning coastline, and namely summer tourism, music festivals, food, arts, crafts, and marine life.
We hit Samsø on a string of gorgeous summer days and were excited to see what it had to offer. Our primary goal was a visit with my two cousins, Jacob and Anette, and Inga and Erik, my aunt and uncle.
A cozy atmosphere in Ballen. We had a harbor front lunch at Røgeriet.
Getting There - Ferry to and From Samsø
Traveling from Copenhagen you can travel to Samsø by ferry from Kalundborg to the small town of Ballen. The ferry takes about an hour and a half and tickets start at Kr. 148.00 for a car including passengers.
Leaving Samsø we took the Sælvig to Hou ferry as we were en route to mainland Jutland. This ferry takes one hour.
Arriving at Ballen you instantly know you are visiting a quaint part of the world. There are several dining options around the harbor, just minutes from the ferry terminal.
For lunch, we settled for a smoked mackerel, fiskefrikadeller (fish balls), and a freshly baked baguette which we enjoy at the harbor front. It was delicious, to say the least.
Swimming from a pier near Ballen, Samsø
Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream
There is a gorgeous beach in Ballen as well and the marina is buzzing with activity. We stopped at the Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream shop and met my cousin Annette, who we hadn’t seen for years, and were introduced to Tony, her business partner, whom we had never met.
Annette treated us to homemade Italian ice cream and Tony whipped up a barista-made coffee, a good start to our three days on the island of Samsø.
Tony makes us a coffee at Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream
We knew Annette and Jacob had an Ice Cream shop at Samsø but we had no idea about the scope of it all.
Anette, Jacob, and Tony operate “Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream” from three locations on the island of Samsø. One in Ballen, one just as you enter Nordby, called “Haven” (the garden), and the marquee store in Nordby by the famous pond. They also sell clothing items and coffee.
They pride themselves on the fact that the ice cream is purely ecological and the recipe stems from Venice, Italy.
Idyllic Nordby on the island of Samsø
Staying in Nordby
It’s about a twenty-minute drive north through the beautiful countryside and then along the east coast of the Island to Nordby (Northtown) where we would be staying at the Casa Tua Airbnb.
Jacob and his girlfriend Caroline welcomed us and I believe we had the best room in the Airbnb. We arrived just before the main summer season and there was an air of excitement for what was about to unfold with the busy summer season on the horizon.
It was wonderful to catch up with Jacob and to meet his girlfriend. We caught up on our travel stories and Jacob told us everything about the Ice Cream adventure, from how they got started, to where they are now, including how they make all the ice cream themselves at the Nordby location.
My cousin, Jacob, doing his craft, making ice cream at Casa Tua in Nordby, Samsø
Ballebjerg
Although we were promised all the ice cream we could eat our waistline told us that we should probably get out and see more of the island :)
Jacob suggested it was paramount to visit Ballebjerg, preferably at sunset so we did just that.
Ballebjerg is located about a 5-minute drive from Nordby. Much to our amazement we were the only visitors for about half an hour before a small tour bus arrived. This spot was incredible and set the scene for one of our favorite moments during our entire Denmark trip.
The photos below are captured an hour before sunset which was after 10 pm, only a few days prior to the summer solstice.
The view from Ballebjerg, Samsø, toward Kattegat and the island of Tunø.
Morten taking in the views at Ballebjerg
Samsø Roadtrip
Nothing is far away on the island of Samsø. To get from Nordby to Vesborg Fyr in the south will take you half an hour (approx. 26 km / 16 miles) but why rush? We took our time as we drove by the beautiful bay at Langø, and stopped for another coffee in Ballen before aiming for the lighthouse at Vesborg.
The views of Kattegat and the surrounding fields were indeed impressive from the lighthouse. On our way home, we took our time again through small towns such as Koldby Kås and Tranebjerg.
The view from Vesborg Lighthouse. The drive from north to south is only about half an hour unless you stop to smell the roses on the way.
Lunch in Besser - Søster Sidevind
You would have to look far and wide to find a small town as cozy as the one of Besser, located mid-island. In search of a good lunch, “Søster Sidevind” (Sister Sidewind) was recommended to us by Jacob.
We ordered a lunch plate with traditional open-face smorgasbord pieces of rye bread with various toppings and were not disappointed.
Søster Sidevind has indoor as well as outdoor seating in a wonderful garden area. If you are looking for souvenirs it’s all here including several antique items.
Lunch and shopping for souvenirs at “Søster Sidevind”
There are several homes such as this with a thatched roof in Nordby, Samsø
Issehoved
Clouds did start rolling in on our last day but the weather was still great for exploring the northern tip of Samsø, Issehoved.
Again this location was literally just a few minutes from Nordby where we stayed and the hike/walk was stunning as we watched the sky and sea change colors as the weather shifted.
From the parking lot, various trails lead you to the beach where you can walk around the tip and take in the views of Kattegat and the hills behind you.
Issehoved, the northern tip of Samsø
Visiting With Family
We made a couple of visits with my aunt and uncle who takes residence for the summer in a comfy cottage on the west coast of the island.
On the first night Annette, Jacob, and Tony joined us for a wonderful dinner which we enjoyed outside on the deck. We stayed till sunset which again was after 10 pm on a completely calm evening. It was stunningly beautiful.
Our second visit was for tea watching Denmark play a Eurocup soccer qualifier match. The game was boring but the company was great.
My cousin, Anette, and her husband Jes at Casa Tua
We really enjoyed our time at Samsø. Imagine, for five years when we lived in Aarhus, we were only a one-hour ferry ride away.
It only goes to show you that we often forget to explore our own backyard and strive for distant shores in what we perceive to be exotic locations instead.
We finally made amends and Samsø is indeed the gem we thought it would be.
The highlight for us was rekindling our connection with my cousins and learning more about Casa Tua. Caroline treated us to wonderful lunches and dinners we felt like a part of the Casa Tua team before we left. We could have stayed for much longer.
My aunt Inga and Diana at the cottage on the island of Samsø
Samsø Is Much More
There is so much you can see and do on the island of Samsø. Check out visitsamsoe.dk for more ideas. As we mainly came to the island to visit family, naturally we only just scratched the surface but still hope this has given you a taste of what to expect if you are planning a visit to the island. Happy travels.
One more coffee please. Diana and Jacob at Casa Tua.
Samsø Sunset
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