3 Days on the Island of Samsø, Denmark

Hiking near Ballebjerg, Samsø

A Three-Day Getaway to the Quaint Island of Samsø in Denmark

We have lived in Denmark for almost thirty years and visited numerous times since moving to Canada, yet we had never been to Samsø. I am not sure why we procrastinated for so long, but we were about to find out that we had been missing out on a hidden gem.

Samsø is a quaint island located in the sea of Kattegat between Jutland and Sealand in Denmark. It is known for its laid-back atmosphere, stunning coastline, summer tourism, music festivals, food, arts, crafts, and marine life.

We hit Samsø on a string of gorgeous summer days and were excited to see what it offered. Our primary goal was a visit with my two cousins, Jacob and Anette, and my aunt and uncle, Inga and Erik.

A cozy atmosphere in Ballen. We had a harbor front lunch at Røgeriet.

Getting There - Ferry to and From Samsø

From Copenhagen, you can travel to Samsø by ferry from Kalundborg to the small town of Ballen. The ferry takes about an hour and a half, and tickets start at Kr. 148.00 for a car, including passengers.

After leaving Samsø, we took the Sælvig to Hou ferry, which takes one hour and takes us to mainland Jutland.

Arriving at Ballen, you instantly know you are visiting a quaint part of the world. Several dining options are around the harbor, just minutes from the ferry terminal.

For lunch, we settled for smoked mackerel, fiskefrikadeller (fish balls), and a freshly baked baguette, which we enjoyed at the harbor front. It was delicious, to say the least.

Swimming from a pier near Ballen, Samsø

Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream

There is also a gorgeous beach in Ballen, and the marina is buzzing with activity. We stopped at the Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream shop and met my cousin Annette, whom we hadn’t seen for years. We were also introduced to Tony, her business partner, whom we had never met.

Annette treated us to homemade Italian ice cream, and Tony whipped up a barista-made coffee, a good start to our three days on the island of Samsø.

Tony makes us a coffee at Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream

We knew Annette and Jacob had an Ice Cream shop at Samsø, but we had no idea about the scope of it all.

Anette, Jacob, and Tony operate “Casa Tua Devine Ice Cream” from three locations on the island of Samsø: one in Ballen, one just as you enter Nordby, called “Haven” (the garden), and the marquee store in Nordby by the famous pond. They also sell clothing and coffee.

They pride themselves on the fact that their ice cream is purely ecological and that the recipe comes from Venice, Italy.

Idyllic Nordby on the island of Samsø

Staying in Nordby

It’s about a twenty-minute drive north through the beautiful countryside and then along the east coast of the Island to Nordby (Northtown), where we will stay at the Casa Tua Airbnb.

Jacob and his girlfriend, Caroline, welcomed us, and I believe we had the best room in the Airbnb. We arrived just before the main summer season, and there was an air of excitement about what was about to unfold, with the busy summer season on the horizon.

It was wonderful to catch up with Jacob and meet his girlfriend. We caught up on our travel stories, and Jacob told us everything about the Ice Cream adventure, from how they got started to where they are now, including how they make all the ice cream themselves at the Nordby location.

My cousin, Jacob, doing his craft, making ice cream at Casa Tua in Nordby, Samsø

Ballebjerg

Although we were promised all the ice cream we could eat, our waistline told us that we should probably get out and see more of the island :)

Jacob suggested it was paramount to visit Ballebjerg, preferably at sunset, so we did just that.

Ballebjerg is located about a 5-minute drive from Nordby. Much to our amazement, we were the only visitors for about half an hour before a small tour bus arrived. This spot was incredible and set the scene for one of our favorite moments during our Denmark trip.

The photos below were captured an hour before sunset, which was after 10 p.m., only a few days before the summer solstice.

The view from Ballebjerg, Samsø, toward Kattegat and the island of Tunø.

Morten taking in the views at Ballebjerg

Samsø Roadtrip

Nothing is far away on the island of Samsø. Getting from Nordby to Vesborg Fyr in the south will take you half an hour (approximately 26 km / 16 miles), but why rush? We took our time as we drove by the beautiful bay at Langø, and stopped for another coffee in Ballen before aiming for the lighthouse at Vesborg.

The views of Kattegat and the surrounding fields were indeed impressive from the lighthouse. On our way home, we took our time, through small towns such as Koldby Kås and Tranebjerg.

The view from Vesborg Lighthouse. The drive from north to south is only about half an hour unless you stop to smell the roses on the way.

Lunch in Besser - Søster Sidevind

You would have to look far and wide to find a small town as cozy as Besser, located mid-island. In search of a good lunch, Jacob recommended “Søster Sidevind” (Sister Sidewind) to us.

We ordered a lunch plate with traditional open-faced smorgasbord pieces of rye bread with various toppings and were not disappointed.

Søster Sidevind has indoor and outdoor seating in a wonderful garden area. If you are looking for souvenirs, you can find them here, including several antique items.

Lunch and shopping for souvenirs at “Søster Sidevind”

There are several homes such as this with a thatched roof in Nordby, Samsø

Issehoved

Clouds started rolling in on our last day, but the weather was still great for exploring the northern tip of Samsø, Issehoved.

Again, this location was literally just a few minutes from Nordby, where we stayed, and the hike/walk was stunning as we watched the sky and sea change colors as the weather shifted.

From the parking lot, various trails lead you to the beach where you can walk around the tip and take in the views of Kattegat and the hills behind you.

Issehoved, the northern tip of Samsø

Visiting With Family

We made a couple of visits with my aunt and uncle, who spend the summer in a comfy cottage on the west coast of the island.

On the first night, Annette, Jacob, and Tony joined us for a wonderful dinner, which we enjoyed outside on the deck. We stayed until sunset, which again was after 10 p.m. on a completely calm evening. It was stunningly beautiful.

Our second visit was for tea, watching Denmark play a Eurocup soccer qualifier match. The game was boring, but the company was great.

My cousin, Anette, and her husband Jes at Casa Tua

We enjoyed our time at Samsø. Imagine, for five years, when we lived in Aarhus, we were only a one-hour ferry ride away.

It only shows you that we often forget to explore our backyard and strive for distant shores in what we perceive to be exotic locations instead.

We finally made amends, and Samsø is indeed the gem we thought it would be.

The highlight was rekindling our connection with my cousins and learning more about Casa Tua. Caroline treated us to wonderful lunches and dinners, and before we left, we felt like a part of the Casa Tua team. We could have stayed for much longer.

My aunt Inga and Diana at the cottage on the island of Samsø

Samsø Is Much More

There is so much you can see and do on the island of Samsø. Check out visitsamsoe.dk for more ideas. As we mainly came to the island to visit family, naturally, we only just scratched the surface. However, we still hope this has given you a taste of what to expect if you are planning a visit to the island. Happy travels.

One more coffee please. Diana and Jacob at Casa Tua.

Samsø Sunset