Albania Road Trip and Tirana
Road trip through the mountains in southern Albania
Albania Road Trip and A Week in Tirana Itinerary
Traveling in Albania
Albania had been on our radar for some time and was recommended to us on several occasions. We read glowing blog reviews in the summer of 2018 when we had initially planned to visit. After our daughter, Emma, boyfriend Simon, and family traveled to Albania in the summer of 2019 they eagerly recommended it.
As part of our tour of the Balkans, Albania was an easy choice promising diverse experiences. From the colorful capital city of Tirana to historical gems such as Berat and Gjirokaster. We had a road trip in mind and were looking forward to the mountains in the south and the coastal route along the Adriatic Sea.
Map for a 9-day trip through Albania. We entered Albania by bus from Ohrid in North Macedonia. In Tirana, we rented a car and drove through Berat, Gjirokaster, Sarandë, Vlorë, Durrëss, and back to Tirana. We then hopped on a bus from Tirana to Kotor in Montenegro. Click to view a larger map.
Bus From Ohrid to Tirana, Entering Albania from North Macedonia
Our bus ticket with Previznik Bus Company had been purchased the day before at Kompas Travel in Ohrid, North Macedonia for 500 MKD each, approximately $9.50. A 131-kilometer journey. We had been forewarned that the driver might be late for our 7 am departure.
It rarely works in your favor when you have such a reputation but we did not want to chance it and arrived at the pickup spot at 6:50 am ready for our next move. 7:00 am rolls around and no driver.
I spot another cab driver nearby and ask him. He assures me our driver will show up. He finally arrived at 7:20 am and with a big smile apologized. Sorry, I’m late! He is the kind of guy you instantly know you will not be upset with for long due to his positive attitude.
The van, a nice Mercedes, has room for three more passengers and he tells us another two passengers will be joining us on the ride to Tirana.
Magnificent views over the roof tops from our guest house in Berat, Albania
There was a quick stop in Struga to pick up the other passengers, two young women. One sits in the back and one in front. We are in the middle. The young woman in the front introduced herself as Anxhela Hamati and mentioned she is a singer and from Albania.
She gave us a link to one of her songs on Youtube, Aman Djalo. Her banter with our driver, in a mix of Albanian and English, suggested she had taken the bus to and from Tirana many times.
The border to Albania was quiet and the crossing was easy but the driver received a call just as we had crossed. An animated discussion followed, voices raised and it became apparent another five passengers had been left behind in Ohrid. Our driver was fuming and could not believe it.
The colourful Tirana Skyline in Albania
The whole scene was quite entertaining to watch as it unfolded. In the end, we had to wait for them to catch up. We transferred to a bigger bus and were on our way again en route to Tirana. The other passengers were young travelers from Australia and the Czech Republic.
Anxhela was playing a word puzzle and in a team effort, we all helped to get her to level 160. There was a wonderful energy and mood on the bus and we were conveniently dropped off very near our accommodation.
After counting our bags, we realized we were missing one backpack. Luckily, the bus was still stuck in traffic ten meters from us. For once a traffic jam worked in our favor. It was certainly a bus ride to remember.
The National Museum of History at Skanderbeg Square in Tirana, Albania
A Wonderful Room at Federico’s in Tirana
Initially, we booked a couple of nights in Tirana with plans for a road trip thereafter. We wanted a central location keeping our budget in mind. At $30.00 per night, including breakfast, Federico’s Vila a couple of blocks from Skanderbeg Square fits the bill.
Despite our early arrival, Federico had our room ready. The room was large and bright with a shared bathroom. The bed was a bit too hard for our taste but Di came up with a solution, layering the very large bath towel under the sheet. It was just enough cushioning to make it tolerable.
Federico is the kind of host who will go all the way to make you feel welcome and we really appreciated his kindness and the information he shared about Tirana. Breakfast was deep-fried toast with homemade jam and eggs.
Colourful buildings in central Tirana, Albania
Things To See in Tirana
Tirana Free Walking Tour
The free walking tours have become a set routine for our city visits. What better way to get a proper introduction to a new location? The tours are usually very informative, and fun, and you meet other travelers. We warmly recommend this.
We opted for a 2 pm tour on our arrival day but first things first. A coffee on the front steps of the Opera House by Skanderbeg Square to get us pumped.
Warm up to the free walking tour in Tirana. Coffee break on the front steps of the Opera by Skanderbeg Square.
Skanderbeg Square
Our guide, a 43-year-old man with three children, had lived in Detroit and spoke English flawlessly. He had started the walking tours initiative with three others. It is a donation-based service. He started out by mentioning the three most important things about Albania. Skanderbeg, Mercedes Benz, and Raki.
Skanderbeg was an Albanian nobleman and military commander who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire and, to this day, he is a national hero.
If you are into cars it quickly becomes apparent many drivers in Albania favor the Mercedes Benz brand. You will see an unbelievable number of black Mercedes cars. New and old, perhaps mostly old, reworked models, have found new life here.
Free Walking Tour of Tirana at REJA - The Cloud, designed by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto
Velvet Revolution and Raki
After the velvet revolution in 1990 Mercedes became a status symbol and equivalent to success. Raki is a sweetened, often anise-flavored, alcoholic drink, which is popular in Albania. We later learned how true this is, and how good it is.
The walking tour covered some of the most prominent locations in Tirana such as Skanderbeg Square, The Pyramid of Tirana, Enver Hoxha’s former residence. Hoxha was a communist politician and head of state in Albania, serving from 1944 to 1985.
Curiously a KFC restaurant is now located right across from his home and is considered upscale dining. We saw the Great Mosque of Tirana and Mother Teresa Square.
Behind the National Art Gallery, the guide showed a small selection of statues from the communist era, almost as if hidden from the public eye. These statues of Lenin, Stalin, and Hoxha were once located in Tirana’s main squares but have since been removed.
Our guide recalled the years after the velvet revolution and answered questions from the group. He vividly described his first pair of jeans and how they discovered rock music.
The Pyramid of Tirana. Our guide told us the local government floated plans to restore the facility into a concert venue.
Tirana appears as a modern city today but as soon as you look behind the facade you are reminded of the poverty the Albanian people have endured.
They have come a long way in thirty years but it is evident that capitalism was introduced late in the history of the country.
Restaurants in Tirana
For a traditional Albanian restaurant, Oda was recommended to us by our host Federico as well as by our daughter Emma. The atmosphere was amazing and you sit on low tables and chairs amidst Albanian decor and historical photographs.
A kitten came in to join us but was shunned away by the staff. Di had lamb cooked on a wood stove and I had peppers stuffed with rice. Mulberry raki was a must-try and a delicious way to round off a long day. Dinner was LEK 2,200 or approximately $21.00.
Dinner at Restaurant Oda, Rruga Luigj Gurakuqi, Tirana, Albania
For dinner, on our second evening in Tirana, we picked another restaurant on Federico’s list, L’Osteria, an Italian restaurant. We both had pasta dishes followed by delicious tiramisu. A very cozy restaurant with good service.
The restaurant was hosting a mid-week 35th birthday party and kids were running around having fun. While some might have found it distracting we quite enjoyed the lively family atmosphere. Dinner with wine was LEK 1,950 or approximately $16.00.
Day 2 in Tirana
Di had been looking for yarn as she likes to knit on our many bus rides, train rides, or flights. So we set out early Sunday and headed for a street market.
The people we asked along the way sent us in new directions for yarn and it became a wonderful adventure, walking in the sun and enjoying the street photography opportunities along the way. The search for yarn was in vain. Perhaps in the next city.
Two gentlemen strike a conversation on a sidewalk in Tirana, Albania
New Soccer Stadium in Tirana
A new soccer stadium is near completion in Tirana and a Euro 2020 qualifier game between Albania and France was scheduled. We entertained the idea of getting tickets but heard they were sold out. Still, we headed in the direction of the stadium just to check things out and passed the Presidential Office on our way.
Our guide from the free walking tour suggested a quick visit if we had the chance. The doors were open and we ventured inside to view the art exhibit. An interesting historical stamp collection was on display celebrating the close relationship between Albania and China. Check it out if you are in this part of town.
At the market in Tirana, Albania
The Tanners' Bridge
Lunch was at New York Tirana Bagels. We had fond memories of the best bagels we have ever had in lower Manhattan in New York City but will admit the bagels in Tirana were just okay. Lunch was LEK 570 or $5.50.
The soccer stadium did not look like it would be ready for match day but a myriad of construction workers seemed very concentrated and the match went on as scheduled a few days later. We never did get tickets.
Read below how we ended up watching the game on TV in Vlöre. We made a quick stop at the AVIS rental office which happened to be in very close proximity to the stadium. We sorted out a few details for our rental the following day.
The Tanners' Bridge in Tirana, Albania
Rain was in the forecast so we sped up and headed by the Tanners’ Bridge on our way back to Federico’s. Tanners’ bridge is from the 18th century and was originally used for livestock and produce entering the city.
Back at Federico’s, we settled in on a rainy afternoon to work on the blog, and catch up on accounting and travel planning. Dinner was at L’Osteria as mentioned above.
Albania Road Trip
Departing Tirana
Breakfast at Federico's was enjoyed in the garden. How lovely to sit outside in November only wearing a light sweater while we read about the cold snap and snowstorms hitting Ontario back in Canada.
After we collected our things and were ready to head out Frederico offered to call a friend who has a cab but unfortunately his friend was busy. We agreed we would find a taxi on the street easily enough.
The view of the town and valley from Gjirokaster Castle
After a quick stop to withdraw additional cash from the ATM at the end of the road, we attempted to wave down a few taxis but they were all busy.
We spotted a taxi across the street but despite presenting a map and the address in Albanian he indicated he did not know where it was and declined. Probably because it was a short trip of 1.2 km so not really worth his while.
We decided our best option at this point was to walk to the AVIS car rental by the new stadium. This is one of the reasons we travel light.
We were excited about our Albania Road Trip. A capture from that moment when you first see the Adriatic Sea.
Car Rental in Albania
Most of the paperwork was done the day before so it was pretty straightforward at AVIS rentals. One snafu. Despite the fact we have insurance through our MasterCard they charged a mandatory insurance fee of €10,00 per day and strongly recommended full coverage for €20.00 per day.
After a short deliberation, we decided to pay the extra as it was a short three-day rental. It seemed a small price to pay to have them on our side so to speak and I must admit it made me a bit more relaxed about driving in Albania.
A grey Opel Corsa was ready for us. The car, however, had seen better days. It was banged up in so many places. We took photos and videos to document the existing damage.
After a quick adjustment of the mirrors and the USB hooked up to our iPhone and Google maps tuned in, we were off. The AVIS office is in a good location to get out of the city. Two quick left turns and a right and you are on the highway south to Berat.
The Berat Castle Walls
Tirana to Berat
Things were going well but as we neared Elbasan, Google maps started to crash. It kept crashing so Di did a restart of the phone and wrote the following in our diary.
When it booted back up the SIM card locked. I had a bit of a panic attack as I thought I had thrown out the code to unlock the SIM the night before.
I grabbed a screenshot of where we were and thought we could make it driving by the map, the old fashioned way.
We ended up on smaller roads and were uncertain if we had picked the best route. I have to admit, I panicked a bit with the unexpected. I felt stupid as I thought I had thrown out the info we needed.
As we drove through a speck of a village, I saw a Vodafone sign. We backed up and I was able to get help from the agent.
We needed the card, the SIM was on and it turned out Morten had not one but two in his wallet. One from Ireland and one from Albania. The code to unlock the phone is on the back of the card.
We were back in business with data. Google maps was still crashing but I had played around with Michelin Maps earlier in the week and was able to download the app and get directions to Berat.
The view of the Adriatic Coast from the Llogara Pass
Even then, the Michelin Map app took us on some pretty small and narrow roads or perhaps better described as well-worn paths.
We did make it back on the main road and pushed onwards to Berat. We passed through the town of Belsh and would recommend a stop for coffee, as it looked very cozy with a beautiful location on a lake.
Our host at Guesthouse Mikel and I were communicating through the booking.com app. He guided us on our way until we arrived about an hour and a half later than intended.
We stayed in one of the classic homes on the slopes of Berat, Albania
Berat
Guest House Mikel in Berat
After parking the car on the main street and meeting Taci, we follow him up the winding stairs about 300 meters to Guest House Mikel where we had booked one night.
We round a corner and see - I “heart” Berat - in colorful paint on the stairs and an older gentleman tending some container plants. This is our destination and the older man is Mikel, Taci’s father.
Taci’s father led us into a very cozy room with windows all the way around and great views of the city drawing us in. We speculated whether or not the room was a living room when the family had lived there. The bathroom, as well as the kitchen, was downstairs.
Mikel came back upstairs with a tray with raspberry brandy and a treat which I believe was quince jam/conserve. We say cheers and Mikel show us where all of the light switches are.
We highly recommend Guest House Mikel. Great host, amazing view, an experience we will always treasure. We paid LEK 7500 for one night, $69.00.
Berat and the castle above
We decided to head out right away to capture the light while it was still on this side of the mountain, as we expected by the time we would be back from the castle, the light would be gone.
We wandered down the steps and take a wrong turn but all roads lead down to the old town and the bridge over the Osum river. Crossing the bridge we catch a view of the castle on the hill and the old town below before crossing back over to make our way to the main attraction.
Berat has the nickname, The Town of a Thousand Windows and The White City. It is a UNESCO town (2008) with Ottoman architecture. The winding road takes us up to the castle and we imagine the summer months when the Svane-Als clan were here.
It must have been a real struggle to reach the top in the heat. There are several places to rest and a restaurant on the way up. We joke that if we had been here in summer we would surely have stopped for a beer. Admission to the castle was LEK 200 or $1.85.
Holy Trinity Church at Berat Castle, Albania
We wander the castle grounds and after climbing the steep hill lunch is on our minds but it was off-season and not much is open. Very few people had ventured to the castle on this beautiful sunny day.
A big sign on the wall says; Café-Bar but alas, closed. We kept to the perimeter and walked by the Holy Trinity Church on the edge of the compound. Amazing views of the valley.
As we were wandering, we heard a single voice singing and the sounds of woodworking. Drawn towards the sound, we walk in the sunshine and see a building a bit further along the path. The top floor is derelict but in the bottom corner, artwork and linens are displayed for sale.
As we cross towards the building we discover the source of the singing, an artisan, working alone in his workshop, carving the buildings of Berat in wood planks. It was a very peaceful moment. This seemed to be a man, content in his own company and his work.
Amazing view from the castle in Berat, Albania
We had seen the flag waving above the castle when we first arrived in Berat and now standing up here the flag was huge. Di was able to go to the edge but not for long.
Fantastic views of the Osum Valley below us. We understand why it would have been used as a fortress as you would have been able to see the enemy approaching for miles.
As we walked back towards the entrance, we spotted a side entrance and asked a local if this would take us back down to town. He confirmed and we headed out on the path. On our trek down, we met two local shepherds and exchanged a few words as we watched the horses and goats.
The amazing view from Berat Castle
We had seen a walking street from above and thought it would be best to get an afternoon coffee and a quick snack as we had missed lunch. We found a good spot and had Fantini coffee and just had to send pictures to our friends, The Fanfanis :)
Mikel greets us as we returned to our B&B. He hangs out in the modest kitchen with a sofa and TV. He points out some of the antique items on display in the entryway. He communicates by sign language and a bit of Italian. The original large key for the “porto”, the grinder for the food for the “bambino”.
It is clear he enjoys the company and is proud of his home and country. We rest and have a bit of screen time. Taci checks in to make sure everything is good and offers assistance with anything we might need.
Exploring the castle in Berat, Albania
As the dinner hour approaches, we decided to try a restaurant close by and head out. Again Mikel greets us and when we point out where we are headed, we believe he says they are closed, which would make sense as the review did say they only have four tables in the yard, and it is November.
We head down to the riverfront instead and opt for a place we had eyed out earlier, Bar Restorant WilDor. Seated upstairs, I am thrilled as the background music is a playlist consisting entirely of Dire Straits and Mark Knopfler songs.
I could not believe it. Those who know me well will know the significance of this. The waiter is very friendly and we order a mixed salad and oven-baked meatballs with onion. Dinner was LEK 2,000 or approximately $18.00.
When we return to our B&B, Mikel’s wife offers a heater but we thought we would be okay and sure enough, we slept very well. What an amazing host family. Genuine care and thoughtfulness from everyone.
Di is making the decent from Guest House Mikel in Berat, Albania
Gjirokaster
Mikel prepared a wonderful traditional breakfast for us. Eggs, bread and puff cream pastry, mountain tea, 2 kinds of homemade jam, tomatoes, cucumbers, a sausage, and a plate of fruit. More than enough food.
We enjoyed breakfast in the family kitchen. The TV was on and music videos from the region were featured. Mikel is a kind and authentic man and he helped us carry our backpacks to the car. Next stop Gjirokaster.
Berat to Gjirokaster
Taci had sent us a screenshot of his suggested route from Berat to Gjirokaster and he confirmed this was the fastest route. Berat to Lushnje, through Fier, (E853) to Gjirokaster.
We head out of town on the main road and noticed almost immediately a focus on tourism infrastructure as road works were underway for most of the journey between these two tourist hubs.
Upon arrival and from the main road in Gjirokaster, we wondered what all the fuss was about. At first glance, the town does not appear to be all that interesting. If we did not have a reservation, we might have driven on not knowing the treasures found just off the main road.
Navigating a steep incline on the cobblestone streets in Gjirokaster, Albania
Lori’s Traditional House in Gjirokaster
Our GPS sent us up the hill on cobblestone streets. The Google maps location said we had arrived but we asked a local and were told it was another 200 meters up the road.
We drove further up and asked the owner of the small shop on the corner. She knew our host Lori and gave her a call to let her know we had arrived.
We park the car but when Lori arrives, she told us to drive even further up the road, even though the sign said, do not enter.
All three of us jump back in the car and crawl up the steep cobbled street to a parking lot, retrieve our bags, and follow Lori on foot another 50-75 meters. Up a short ramp, over the grassy knoll, and to the left, the port opens and we have arrived at Lori’s Traditional House.
Once again a warm welcome as we are shown to our upstairs room with a view of the castle. We settle in and join Lori and her husband for a cup of tea and a cold rice pudding with nuts and fruit. Delicious! From what we understand another traditional Albanian dish but Lori’s version is with added fruit.
Castle of Gjirokaster, Albania
Castle of Gjirokaster
We head out right away to see the castle and views in the afternoon sun. The instructions were easy, turn right and at the old bazaar, follow the signs to the castle. Another UNESCO world heritage site, preserved, Ottoman, Byzantine.
Another climb ahead - road or steps? We opt for the quick poison and take the steps and are happy to report it was not as strenuous as the Berat Castle walk.
Artisans were selling their crafts along the route and we stop to chat with a woman with a very good grasp of the English language.
She has a son and grandchildren in the US. She visits for a couple of months each year and builds up her inventory of crocheted doilies and other linens. We pay to enter the castle, LEK 200, or $2.15.
Bar Restorant Rapi in Gjirokaster near Lori’s Traditional House
We are immediately impressed with the castle-like feel. Long halls with cannons, dark and sinister, and with a bit of imagination, you can sense what life might have been like years ago. What class would you be, an occupant or a visitor, a master or a servant?
We wandered the grounds. The view of the old city is overwhelmingly beautiful in the sunshine. Again you understand the historic placement with the ability to see anyone approaching for miles.
There is a display of cannons and an old US warplane, a display board with two sides of the story – who to believe? Was it a spy mission as the Albanians claim or a plane off course in the fog forced to land as the Americans claim? You are left to be the judge.
All displays are in English so it was an informative visit. The castle was used as a prison during the war and there was an option to look at one of the holding cells.
Old Town Gjirokaster, Albania
The central field and historical images of the Italian army training bring it all to life. Now it is the center stage and home to a National Folk Festival held every 5 years.
There is a stage in the center of the large open space. Down below is the lower gate and clock tower with great views over the city. It is well worth the climb.
Coffee
Finding a good cup of coffee in the Old Town was next on our agenda. Easier said than done. I have been ordering macchiatos and Di black tea. Di received a mountain tea, which was okay, and I received a very strong and bitter Albanian coffee.
Old Town Gjirokaster in Albania
I could not get it down. I opted to try and find someone who spoke a tiny bit of English and might have an espresso machine. Did I mention, that we get serious about our coffee? The coffee at Bar Restorant Rapi was great and set me up for the rest of the day.
Golden Hour
The golden hour was upon us and we chased the light for about an hour. Too late, we realized that what goes down must come up, meaning we had a steady climb back to Lori’s Traditional House.
We love to wander the streets and witness everyday life. No matter where we are, we find we humans are more alike than we are different.
Roof tops of Gjirokaster and the Castle
Dinner at Muço
A short rest and some screen time and we were ready to venture out again for dinner. Di usually does a Google search for restaurants, reads the reviews, and makes a plan. We do not always make it there if something else pops up along the way that draws us in but this time we made it to our planned destination.
Muço is a lovely family-run restaurant on a side street, Rruga Peco Kirka. They have a small menu with pictures of the main items on the wall. A bit of English and we had ordered three traditional dishes to try.
We were the only customers and we followed the prep behind the counter as well as the interactions between husband and wife. We were able to communicate we were from Canada and Denmark, had kids, married, 33 years for us, 37 years for them.
After our meal was presented to us, our host came back with a Raki for Morten from her husband behind the counter. It was his homebrew and he was noticeably proud. Glasses raised, eyes locked, a nod of the head and mutual respect for tradition acknowledged.
Exploring at Gjirokaster Castle, Albania
After dinner, we wandered a couple of streets but decided to make it an early night with popcorn and maybe a Netflix episode. Our hosts had different plans. As we came in the door, Lori’s husband came out and raised his hand – Raki? How can you refuse that?
We were invited into the living room where the stove was lit, with chestnuts roasting atop. It was toasty warm. The TV was tuned to a Balkan cultural program with folklore performances from different countries.
Di had a chilled spiced wine and I had a home-brewed raki. A plate of cheese was served, then some olives. After our drinks, the chestnuts were shared as well. A very cozy evening as we communicated back and forth with some English, some Italian, and a bit of help from Google translate.
Early evening walk in Gjirokaster, Albania
The next morning, breakfast was a fresh omelet, bread, homemade jam, zucchini balls, a plate of fruit, and mountain tea. After we were finished with the omelet, Lori brought in a candied quince – we think.
We were not quite sure but both dove in and while it was very sweet, it was also very tasty. We had both left, what we thought was the pit, but Lori came back in and pointed to them, fruit, eat. It turns out it was hazelnuts, which had been preserved in the fruit. Tasty indeed!
We settled up our bill and Lori and her husband followed us out. Lori’s husband grasped both our hands in a heartfelt thank you. He stayed in the doorway waving until we were no longer in sight.
Beach town on the Adriatic Sea, Albania
Vlorë
On the Road From Gjirokaster to Vlorë
We found the rental car and made our way back down the cobbled streets. As we had only had tea for breakfast we made a quick stop for a double macchiato for me. Di’s tea was served in a macchiato cup. Probably the smallest tea she has ever been served.
The drive through the valley bottom and up over the ridge provided amazing light and we saw shepherds herding their flocks. The slant of rocks looked like the earth had shifted – and perhaps it had as the region is known for earthquakes.
The first stop was Sarandë, a beach town farther south along the coast. Not much going on there in November. We drove through the small streets and took a quick look. Our daughter had stayed in Sarandë last summer so we wanted to check it out. We agreed it looked promising for a nice summer day.
Mountain landscape on the road to Sarandë, Albania
Back on the road towards, Himarë, up and down along the coast. Towards mountains, olive groves, and families out harvesting.
Every now and then we caught a wonderful glimpse of the Adriatic Sea. Our lunch stop was planned for Himarë and we thought we would have a few options but there was only one place open.
We ordered salad and pizza. Instead of waiting at the table, we went across the road to the beach to explore and relax. No one was around. Had we been in Scandinavia we think people would have been swimming, it was such a nice day.
We rested on the beach and went back to enjoy lunch in the company of the many cats looking for nibbles.
The Adriatic Coast, Albania
The Llogara Pass
Back in the car and on the road again I noticed the switchbacks and asked Di if that is where we were headed. It was, and Di’s fear of heights kicked in and she was a bit nervous and panicky. As we drove up, there was a railing but she still turned her body towards the cliffs and I avoided any stops and just kept going.
As we got higher, a storm was behind us and the rain started. The road had just been paved so it was quite safe but also a bit nerve-racking. We stopped for a quick picture but the rain made it near impossible.
Once we hit the summit, we had to Google how high the pass was and the first listing on google was on dangerousroads.com.
Another view from the road driving along the Adiatic Coast of Albania
Di felt better as she felt her fear was justified! The Llogara Pass is 1,043 meters, 3,422 feet, above sea level at the summit and this is easily one of the craziest drives we have ever done.
Once on the other side, the weather started to clear and we could see the ocean again. Further up the Albanian Riviera, Vlorë was our planned stop for the night and you guessed it after we arrived the first priority was a coffee.
We stopped at a small café and sat outside even if it was a bit cold. Everyone in the restaurants seems to smoke and we are not used to it.
Goats on the road along the Adriatic Coast in Albania
Marina Premium Vlorë
The café was below one of the hotels along the waterfront Di had identified as an option in her search so we decided to check it out first. Brand new and opened on August 12, Marina Premium Vlorë has super friendly staff who showed us around and presented different room options.
We decided to stay and relish in a few comforts of home. A good bed, ample living space, a great shower, and a proper workspace. Cost, 4600 LEK or $44.00.
Dinner in Vlorë
We headed out for a walk along the beach and the scent of grilled meat was tantalizing. We walked back to the restaurant recommended by the front desk but we just didn’t feel it. There were no other guests and seemed a bit upper scale for our mood.
Vlorë waterfront, Albania
Back along the boardwalk towards the tantalizing aroma, we found The Taverna. The Kosovo - England Euro 2020 Euro qualifier soccer game was in full swing and there were several tables of locals seated already. We were sold.
We ordered lamb, mixed salad, fries and bread, and half a liter of wine. England scored twice before our dinner arrived and we joked we brought good luck to the England fans in the restaurant.
Albania was playing France at 7:45 pm so we stayed for the first half as we lingered over dinner. Our server wanted to travel to Canada and had applied at the Canadian embassy but no word yet. He had learned English in school and while working as a waiter.
We went home and enjoyed a surf session with excellent internet. The second half of the game was tuned in on the flat-screen TV. But no, Albania did not beat France, despite having a home-field advantage in the newly built stadium in Tirana.
A beautiful blue sky day in Vlorë, Albania
Our hotel had thrown in breakfast, available from the café below. A la carte options or €4.00 for the full meal deal, bottled water, freshly squeezed juice, coffee, and entree. Unfortunately, our server was quite busy and a bit standoffish.
As the car rental was due at 9 am, we called to say we would return later in the day. Vlorë has a long corniche and beachfront so we opted for a walk along the beach in the opposite direction from our evening walk and picked up some oatmeal, yogurt, and snacks before the drive back to Tirana.
The roads get better and better as you near Tirana. We only encountered a couple of hairy moments in the busy roundabouts.
Downtown street corner in Tirana
Back in Tirana
Our Airbnb, Leona’s Apartment, was near Hotel Senator and we arrived just before 2 pm and met our host who greeted us and even offered to pay for our parking as we wanted to drop off our things before returning the rental car.
He also brought us a bottle of wine as we had mentioned we would be celebrating my birthday during our stay. So kind.
The apartment was a bit cold and damp, something we noticed as we entered. It was a huge contrast to the brand new hotel suite we had in Vlorë the night before.
To be fair we paid a very reasonable rate of $26.00 per night for four nights as we wanted to hunker down, do some laundry, and get some work done on the blog.
First things first. We had no problems returning the car late and we avoided any extra charges. On our walk back to the apartment we picked up a few groceries and decided it would be a home, work / TV night. We also had new Netflix episodes of The Crown to catch up on.
Di’s Vlorë power pose
55th Birthday in Tirana
My 55th birthday was upon us and we FaceTimed with both kids, in Canada and Denmark, and had a cozy chat. The sun was shining so after a bit of work we decided to venture out for a walk and came across a barber.
I have been in need of a haircut for a couple of weeks so I ordered a cut and a shave. What a treat. Not much English was spoken but we got a “Happy Birthday” a couple of times with plenty of friendly gestures. The barber did an absolutely superb job. Gentlemen, I highly recommend this.
Wandering in the sunshine we found a cozy café in an alleyway. The guy at the next table asked about my camera and it turns out he was a photographer as well. We had a nice chat and exchanged cards.
Di takes in the view of the TID Tower in Tirana from the Toptani Shopping Center
Later that evening, birthday dinner was in the cards so we headed out but with very little cash left. It was our last night in Albania. We walked along looking for a restaurant where we could pay with a credit card but also did not want to go too far from the apartment.
The plan was to save our cash for a taxi for the next morning but as it proved more challenging to find a restaurant that would accept a card, we decided to walk to the bus and use our last Albanian LEK for dinner.
“Tak Fak”, a restaurant pretty close to our Airbnb was our choice. The owner had been to New York and New Jersey and proudly showed us his US driver's license. We only had 1500 LEK, $14.00, and we told them so, but as the menu was only in Albanian and they kept up-selling us we had a slight misunderstanding when the bill arrived.
Book market in Tirana
About 200 LEK short, $2.00, we headed out to find an ATM. The fee in the first place was exorbitantly high so we canceled the transaction. We tried other ATMs but none of them were working.
Digging through our wallets we found one euro and a few coins and decided to give them to the restaurant in lieu of LEK. It was a good dinner but our server did not get a tip. Chef’s salad, grilled veal, a huge plate of fries, beer, and a lemon soda.
We had bus tickets the following morning to Kotor in Montenegro. With an early 7 am departure we packed and had things ready before settling in for the night.
It was time to say goodbye to Tirana and Albania. The walk to the bus station the next morning was easier than we had anticipated. Ahead of us was a six-hour bus ride to Kotor.
Friends meet up at a café in Tirana, Albania
Final Thoughts on Albania
Albania was one of the countries where I was afraid of building up high expectations as I inevitably could end up disappointed. We had heard Albania was a “do not miss” destination and in the end, we have to join the fans of Albania and give it two thumbs up.
While traveling in Albania you enjoy some benefits from a western world but you also feel you are well off the beaten path and it challenges you as a traveler. You will see and experience new and exciting destinations while also witnessing aspects of an impoverished past.
Last day in Tirana, Albania
Travel Tips
Our car rental went without a hitch despite some worries as our car was dinged up in several places when we hired it. Make sure to take photos of a rental car before leaving the lot. We did opt to pay extra insurance as we were slightly worried about driving in Albania.
They do drive on the right-hand side in Albania, which is nice for us coming from Canada. Despite a few hectic roundabouts in Tirana, there was little need for worry. Google Maps is not reliable so make sure you study maps prior to departure or use an alternative like maps.me or similar
Cash was the preferred payment method in most restaurants we encountered.
For the most part, we drank only bottled water in Albania
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The photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have made use of Fujifilm film simulations in this article.
