3-Days in Kyiv
Update: 2022. Due to the war in Ukraine, we advise against traveling to Kyiv at this point in time. We hope for a return to normal for the Ukrainian people soon and have left this post online as a reminder of how wonderful a city this is. Our Kyiv visit was in August 2018.
Saint Sophia Cathedral in Kyiv, Ukraine
Train From Krakow to Warsaw
There are easier ways to get to Kyiv but due to the last-minute scheduling our options were limited and the overnight train from Warsaw seemed to be our best bet.
On the initial stretch from Kraków to Warsaw, first-class tickets were all that was available and I must say we thoroughly enjoyed our three hours onboard with ample space in comfortable seats and food and drinks included. The night train from Warsaw to Kyiv was another story.
Waiting for the train to Ukraine at the Warsaw Train Station
Train From Warsaw to Kyiv
After boarding in Warsaw, it was unbearably hot. We couldn’t do anything but sit down and wait until the train left the station and the air-conditioning kicked in. We had a private double sleeper cabin and settled in for the evening and night.
At first, I struggled with the confinement and thinking about the next 16 hours onboard. Did I mention it was hot? Then I reminded myself; we chose to rough it and I finally relaxed.
Our friendly attendant brought us tea and we both read our books. Not certain about the timing of the border passport control, we turned out the lights and tried to get some sleep.
As soon as I dozed off, a knock on the door. First, it was the Polish checkpoint, then the Ukrainian checkpoint.
Sleeper Car (Schlafwagen) from Warsaw Poland to Kyiv Ukraine
Then there was a long wait and shuffling of train cars. The border agents took our passports and Di was starting to wonder if we would ever get them back.
The whole ordeal took 3-4 hours and ended just before 2 am. We continued on a bumpy ride with less-than-ideal railroad tracks.
Needless to say, sleep was hard to come by, although we did manage to get some rest despite a thorough jostling. The following morning we were reading up on Kyiv, as the train, much to our surprise, rolled into the station.
We had totally forgotten traveling east meant a new time zone. We scrambled and managed to collect our things and disembarked.
An old car is parked in front of St. Andrew's Cathedral in Kyiv Ukraine
Airbnb in Kyiv
We had to wait a couple of hours before we could check into our Airbnb in the city center and ended up killing time at a nearby coffee shop/shrimp restaurant.
This is one of the unpleasantries of Airbnb; waiting and lurking in a back alley in a somewhat rough-looking neighborhood trying to identify the contact who will provide a key.
Our accommodation was by no means luxurious, but the apartment had the basics and was located close to Victory Square.
The bed was somewhat creaky, the layout had very little in the way of feng shui and we struggled with hot water. We did, however, have a kettle, laundry facilities, and excellent WiFi and we enjoyed preparing a meal or two.
Blue Skies at Kyiv Pechersk Lavra in Kyiv Ukraine
Things to Do in Kyiv
Emma, our daughter, and partner Simon have been to Kyiv and raved about it and now we better understand why.
We spent three days sightseeing, walking, and using the metro to get around. We stopped at the Arsenalna Metro Station, the deepest underground station in the world at 105.5 meters, 346 feet. The main attractions for us were:
Saint Sophia Cathedral
Kyiv Pechersk Lavra
St. Andrew's Church
St. Michael's Golden-Doomed Monastery.
Each was stunning in its own way. We enjoyed the walks and scenery between the attractions just as much. Kyiv has a wonderful entrepreneurial vibe.
Kyiv Pechersk Lavra in Kyiv, Ukraine
Military Parade on the Ukrainian Independence Day
On our first evening, just after 6 pm, we were surprised by 10 loud explosions. Slightly worried we checked our phones for news and finding nothing headed out to quickly discover a rehearsal for Ukraine’s Independence Day on August 24th.
The military parade on Independence Square was a spectacle like none we had seen before. The sound of the boots hitting the pavement, the marching band music, the loud patriotic cheers, and blue and yellow flags everywhere.
Ukraine is a nation at war and it was evident they take pride in their military. During our stay, many soldiers milled about and military equipment was on display in the city squares.
Military Parade at Victory Square in Kyiv, Ukraine
Kyiv Restaurants
Food, coffee, and drinks are affordable in Kyiv. The same goes for admission to the attractions. We come away with a sack full of impressions.
We enjoyed two superb dinners. On our first night, we had wonderful seats along the sidewalk at Restaurant Tres Francais and paid $21.00 per person including drinks and entrees for two.
On our last night, we dined at a traditional Ukrainian restaurant, Spotykach, where we ordered borscht, pirogies, cabbage rolls, and “Chicken Kyiv” and paid $14.00 per person.
Restaurant Tres Francais in Kyiv Ukraine
Final Thoughts
This was our first visit to a former Soviet country. Signs from the Soviet era are evident in the architecture and infrastructure. Busses and trams were decades old, yet still running.
Even though Ukraine has come a long way since 1991 with modern malls, mobile phone stores, and fancier cars, at times it felt like a step back in time, twenty or thirty years.
The service level we received was hit-and-miss. Some people were kind and offered help or advice with a smile. Others were very stern with a seemingly authoritarian demeanor.
Waterfront in Kyiv
While we enjoyed the challenge and the experience, a few things put us off. For example, the argumentative replies from our Airbnb host when we offered what we thought was constructive feedback.
At some restaurants, but not all we had to pay our bill in two portions, one for food and one for alcohol.
Photography is not always allowed or there is a surcharge. The overall experience of Kyiv was very good, so do not let our few quibbles turn you away from paying a visit.
Children are playing in a fountain on a warm day in Kyiv
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The photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have used Fujifilm film simulations for some of the photos.
