3 Days in Kraków, Poland
Spending 3 Days In Kraków
Why Krakow
Over the Christmas holidays, we watched "Schindler's List" again, Stephen Spielberg's movie from 1993 with events unfolding in Kraków during the second world war. The Zookeeper's Wife, another historically based film from 2017 about events in Warsaw solidified Poland as a destination we wanted to explore.
Day 1
Arriving in Krakow by Bus From Berlin
Our ten-hour bus from Berlin was an hour late and as we dragged our feet and backpacks through the very modern mall adjacent to the train station and Main Square we were a bit disappointed. It felt as if we had landed in a North American metropolis merged into a modern beehive of a tourist trap.
Staying in The Old Town
We decided on a location in the Old Town near Main Market Square and the “Unitkat Guest Rooms” was within our budget at $87.00 per night. The room was comfortable and when you opened the window you could hear and feel the action of a European metropolis on a summer night.
Initially, opening the window was appealing but later we had to close it as the noise from the street kept us awake. We relied on a fan to keep the air circulating. This did not take away from the experience. In particular, we enjoyed good service from the front desk staff and can certainly recommend this hotel.
Day 2
Main Square - Old Town
A good night’s sleep, a solid breakfast, and Krakow seemed much more appealing as we ventured out for the day with a more positive outlook. The Main Square, the largest medieval square in Europe, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site are indeed impressive with St. Mary's Basilica and the Cloth Hall.
It is also a tourist hub on steroids with brand-name chain stores, countless horse-drawn carriages, and tourist fluff. This undeniably takes away from the original medieval scene.
The Jewish Quarter Of Kazimierz
We decided to head to the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz and it felt more authentic with each step. We often seek out photography exhibits and a visit to the Galicia Jewish Museum was first on our agenda.
It was a moving collection of color photographs illuminating the years after World War II until the current day; portraying the decline of the Jewish presence in Poland and current activities.
The exhibit had photos of worn down and abandoned synagogues, mass graves, and a section from the Auschwitz and Birkenau concentration camps. We left in a somber mood and walked on to debrief.
Street Food Market
We wandered the streets, took in the atmosphere of the warm summer evening, and settled on an Armenian wrap from a street market for dinner. It was a busy weekend in Kraków, at the peak of the tourist season.
Day 3
In the morning we returned to the train station to secure our tickets to Kiev (Kyiv) for the next day. All of the direct routes from Krakow were sold out, which made the decision to take the overnight train through Warsaw that much easier.
Oskar Schindler’s Factory Museum
With Spielberg's movie in mind, we sought out the Oskar Schindler Factory Museum. Located in Oskar Schindler's original enamel factory the museum is an interactive display of life in Krakow from 1939 to 1945.
It was especially moving to see a monument with the names of the 1,200 Jews Schindler saved. You may recognize the photo below from the entrance to the factory with portraits of the employees.
Quaint Shops, Cafés, and Live Music
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the streets in the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz. This was by far our favorite part of Kraków with quaint shops and cafés on almost every street corner. Buskers and street artists were everywhere and of course tourists. But the crowds never took away from the good experience.
Dinner time was approaching and the search for a good restaurant began. We are notorious for not settling for the first place we find. We always look for a special ambient atmosphere.
A Polish band was playing in a square near St. Mary's Basilica and we found a table at a restaurant, QLT, where we could see the band perform. The band was awesome and now I regret not taking note of the band name.
Prices In Krakow
By Canadian standards, prices were reasonable in Krakow. A solid breakfast at Polski Smaki was $5.00 per person. Dinner at QLT Restaurant was $12.50 per person including drinks. Admission to the Galicia Jewish Museum was $6.30 per person.
Final Thoughts About Krakow
We hit Krakow at the peak of the tourist season which at times had a negative impact on our stay but it was really minor things like a bit of noise in the evening.
Being in Krakow in August also had its charm with wonderful weather and a festive mood, especially in the Jewish Quarter. The food was excellent and affordable.
Without hesitation, it is a city you can put on your bucket list and when you make it you will not be disappointed.
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The photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have used Fujifilm film simulations in this post. The black and white images below are all from the Acros film simulation.