2 Days in Bratislava
Bratislava Castle in Slovakia
December Christmas Markets and Sightseeing in Bratislava
In the summer of 2018, our original plan was to enter Slovakia from Poland and spend some time in the Tatras Mountains. Our research pointed us to this region for beautiful hikes.
When Di fell ill in Denmark this plan was changed, meaning Slovakia was still on our list of countries we wanted to visit.
As it happened, we found reasonably priced flights from Cyprus to Bratislava and our expectations were to see a city that, in ways, would resemble and remind us of Praque, where we paid a visit in 2016 and way back in the eighties.
Leaving from Paphos International Airport in Cyprus on a sunny day, 25 degrees, and arriving in a much colder Bratislava, Slovakia
Bratislava is a smaller city but we did not mind. Prague has a population of 1.3 million whereas Bratislava has 424,000. We were looking forward to spending a couple of days and visiting the Christmas markets and the castle.
Our Hostel
The flight from Paphos to Bratislava was uneventful and, as we landed after dark, we did not get any impressions of the landscapes below us. A group of young guys was really helpful in getting us on the right bus for the center of Bratislava.
View of Bratislava
We had no mobile data upon arrival and had slight difficulties locating our hostel from our screenshots. A nice couple with two young children helped us get our compass straight and we finally found our very nice hostel which had a great vibe and good service.
We were at Safestay Bratislava and paid $45.00 per night for two nights. Our designated non-smoking room had most certainly been smoked in but the front desk dealt with it promptly and upgraded us to a rooftop private room with a private bath. Super.
The room was very comfortable and we dug the atmosphere at the hostel and used the common area to get caught up on a bit of photo editing and blogging.
Michael’s Gate and Christmas shoppers out on Michalska street on a December’s eve.
Christmas Markets
The front desk staff gave us a quick rundown on how to take the bus downtown. Armed with a map and a healthy appetite for adventure and dinner we headed out. We quickly found our way to Michael’s Gate and decided to make dinner our first priority.
Without being overly picky we found a place on Michalska Street close to Michael’s Gate. In hindsight, it was not the best game plan.
The place was touristy, prices were above what we were really comfortable with, and the meal was mediocre. When hunger hits it becomes more difficult to make good decisions.
Christmas market in the Main Square of Bratislava, Slovakia
If only we had been a tad more patient. Around the corner, we found the Christmas Market in the Main Square and dozens of vendors were offering any treat, snack, or dinner you could imagine. We sampled the mulled wine. It was soooo good and warmed us up this December evening.
Remember we had just left the warmth of Cyprus a few hours earlier. We found a quaint gift shop near Main Square and bought a few Christmas gifts to bring to Denmark.
We explored the downtown core for a while longer but headed back to the hostel fairly early in the evening. We had a big day ahead of us.
A December evening at the Urban Cafe in Bratislava, Slovakia
Free Walking Tour to Bratislava Castle
We were up early and right after breakfast, we were back on the bus taking us to the city center. We explored the areas around Main Square, and the National Theatre, and decided on a cup of coffee to warm us up before the walking tour.
We enjoyed one of the best coffees we’d had in months in the cozy Urban House Café.
Our tour guide, Sylvia, was a bundle of energy and very enthusiastic about her hometown. She started out relaying the history of Slovakia.
Children skating at Hviezdoslav Square in Bratislava
Slovakia History
After the first World War, Czechoslovakia was created in 1918. In 1939 Germany occupied what now is known as The Czech Republic and Slovakia became independent although described as a puppet for Germany.
Czech and Russian troops entered Slovakia in late 1944 and a Socialist, Social Democrat, and Communist government was formed.
By 1948 the Communists staged a full coup. In 1968 during the Prague Spring democracy and freedom of speech were promised but Warsaw Pact allies invaded.
In 1989 the communist tyranny crumbled. The velvet revolution in 1993 led to Slovakia’s independence. In 2004 Slovakia joined the EU.
The meeting spot for our walking tour was at Hviezdoslav Square near the Slovak National Theatre. It was festive with the many gift booths set up for the Christmas Markets.
The walking tour started out at Hviezdoslav Square and the first stop was at the Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav Statue, a famous writer, poet, and patriot. As a Dane, I was thrilled about the next stop, another statue, a tribute to Danish writer, Hans Christian Andersen.
H.C. Andersen is known for famous fairytales such as The Ugly Duckling, The Emperors New Clothes, and The Girl with the Matches.
The story goes; Andersen spent time in Bratislava and described the Slovakian capital as the fairytale city; ”If you want a fairy-tale, then just look at your city, it is a fairytale itself”.
The Hans Christian Andersen statue at Hviezdoslav Square in Bratislava.
St. Martin's Cathedral
One of the oldest Roman Catholic churches of Bratislava, St. Martin’s Cathedral with an impressive 85m spire is built into the city walls and was part of the Old Town’s fortification.
Controversially it was in part demolished in 1970 by the communists to make room for the new Nový Most Bridge.
St. Martin's Cathedral in Bratislava
UFO Tower and Bridge
As a photographer, I found the area around the UFO Tower and Bridge very interesting. You witness firsthand the different types of architecture. From the gothic cathedral of St. Martin to the structures built during the communist rule such as the UFO Tower and Bridge.
The walkways leading to the castle provide amazing views of the city with red-tiled rooftops as well as the business section of the city in the distance.
UFO Tower and Bridge in Bratislava
Bratislava Castle
It was getting very cold and quite windy as we finally reached the castle on the hill and the tour was cut short because of it. This also means I took very few photos from the actual castle, (see the feature photo above in this post).
Back to The Christmas Markets
After a quick warm-up at the castle, we backtracked to the Old Town at Hviezdoslav Square where it did not take us long to find a Slovak sausage with sourkraut and mulled wine to warm us up.
There was a festive mood in the Old Town, especially at the Christmas Market in Main Square where we found a delicious Orechovnik (Slovak Nut Roll) and chased it down with another mulled wine.
Christmas Market in the Main Square of Bratislava, Slovakia
Train Ticket for Vienna
Our train for Vienna would be leaving at 7:38 am the following morning and with mulled wine red cheeks we decided to head to the main train station to buy our tickets. We grabbed a quick sandwich at a train station coffee shop and that was it for dinner.
We had a quiet evening at the hostel and used the common area again for blogging and more travel planning. Lights were out early due to our early train departure for Vienna.
Train tickets from Bratislava to Vienna
Final Thoughts
We cannot praise Bratislava enough. Mind you it is not as big or impressive as s Prague but nor is it as crowded. Wherever we went we were met by a friendly attitude and, although our visit was short, you felt a good vibe in Bratislava.
The free walking tour was a success and the Christmas markets were delightful, to say the least. And did we mention how good the mulled wine was? :)
Vienna waits for you! Morten waiting for the train in Bratislava
Travel Tips
Slovakia is a member of the EU and the official languages are Slovakian and Czech. The currency is Euro.
We had no trouble finding ATMs or using our credit cards. It is almost too easy.
When using ATMs we always decline the option to secure a rate in Canadian dollars as banks charge a higher rate on the spot.
The water is safe to drink in Bratislava.
Bus transportation is straightforward and the easiest way to navigate the downtown core.
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The photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have used Fujifilm film simulations for some of the photos.
