One Night in Mostar
The Old Bridge in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Road Trip to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, and Montenegro
Tour of the Balkans
We had many deliberations on how and when we should visit Bosnia and Herzegovina. Guided tours out of Kotor were the first option we looked at. Unfortunately, none were operating as we were traveling in November, near the end of the season.
Bussing back and forth from Kotor was the second option we investigated but tickets were more than we had anticipated.
Travel times and lengthy bus rides were not particularly appealing either. In the end, we settled on the best solution for our tight timeframe, a rental car.
After visits to Bulgaria, North Macedonia, Albania, and Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina would be the fifth out of six countries on our tour of the Balkans.
The sun is hitting the ridge of the mountains in Mostar.
Most of our calendar and future travel plans had already been carefully laid out which unfortunately only allowed for one night in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We chose to stay in historic Mostar.
Driving From the Bay of Kotor to Mostar
To drive from The Bay of Kotor to Mostar we rented a sporty-looking Skoda Fabia from Sixt car rental at the airport in Tivat, Montenegro.
It was a quick ten-minute cab ride from Kotor where we had spent the last three days. The drive along the Bay of Kotor was beautiful and described further in our Bay of Kotor post.
As we crossed the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina it was surprising how noticeable the differences between the countries were.
The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque and the central part of Mostar on the Neretva River.
The quality of the actual road is usually the first thing you notice, followed by the directional signs and other infrastructure. Buildings are in disrepair and you notice Bosnia is farther behind in economic development than its neighboring countries.
Di had prepared our route and had offline maps and screenshots ready on her iPad in case Google Maps gave out as it did in Albania.
It was a lovely sunny day and I had hoped we would reach Mostar with enough daylight left to explore. Unfortunately, the days were getting shorter and shorter and the sun dipped down behind the mountain just as we rolled into town.
First things first. The Old Bridge in Mostar
Villa Anri
Only one wrong turn resulted in a quick U-turn and we found our hotel, Villa Anri. The super friendly young lady at the front desk offered complimentary drinks, juice, and Nescafé Classic, and brought them to our room.
We were the only guests and could choose our time slot to enjoy breakfast the following morning. We paid $46.00 for one night, including breakfast, and had a very comfortable room with a central location. We highly recommend Villa Anri.
Crossing the Old Bridge in Mostar at dusk
Old Bridge Mostar
A quick turn around and we were out exploring the Old Town of Mostar. Our friendly front desk agent provided a map and circled the highlights. We explored the Old bazaar which has all the regular tourist offerings.
The Old Bridge was easily found and the obligatory photos were taken. Unfortunately, the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque was closed so we could not go up the tower.
Following the walking street, the Museum Of War And Genocide Victims looked quite interesting and had a top rating. However, after a long day on the road, our timing was off and we were not in the right frame of mind. If your timing is better you should try to visit.
Abandoned apartment building in Mostar with bullet hole marks from the civil war.
Both of us had noticed signs for a photography exhibit at the Old Bridge so we headed back through the bazaar, where I did some night photography.
The photography exhibit was closed but Di found a tea room above the bridge with a tiny room where a few locals were gathered. Di struck up a conversation with a local gentleman who had lived in Italy for some years.
The man offered his take on what had happened during the Bosnian war in Mostar. He told tales from The Old Bridge, and what he thought is going on in the world. In his opinion, leaders create chaos to control and make money off the masses.
He continued; People come to see the bridge but most do not understand the significance of Mostar. His most striking remark was; From one moment to the next, we were neighbors, and then suddenly we were pointing our guns at each other.
We wandered on to find a gelato (tiramisu) and photographed a few more night scenes. The restaurants looked super cozy but we were still stuffed from our lunch.
Instead, we opted to pick up some wine, cheese, and crackers from a local store we passed. In the grocery store, we chatted and compared experiences with a friendly British couple who were traveling in the Balkans for four months.
The Old Bridge and if you look carefully you will see the tiny tea/coffee house on the immediate left of the bridge.
Back in our room at Villa Anri, it was time to plan out how we would spend the next few days. Reluctantly, we admit we were having a bit of “old city” fatigue.
We thought about trips further afield, hot springs, and national parks. Dubrovnik was contemplated but we heard it can be tourism on steroids busy and decided against it even though we would drive right by.
In the end, we opted for a scenic drive that would take us to Herceg Novi in Montenegro close to the airport in Tivat where we had to return our rental car. We also booked a hotel for our stay in Budapest.
Ruins of former homes near the Neretva River in Mostar
Day 2
When you travel for an extended period of time you come to appreciate it when everything falls into place. Villa Anri was such a place. It had a great shower, good water pressure, lots of hot water, and space to move around.
We had a wonderful breakfast with toast, buns, cheese, meats, eggs, cereal, juice, coffee, and tea. We both agreed, that it was the best we’d had in a while.
Before breakfast, I was tempted by the morning light, bundled up, and went out for a walk with the camera while Di caught up on her diary. The sun was coming up over the mountains. I walked the back streets and tried to avoid the touristy center of town.
I was shocked to see so many apartment buildings in disrepair, full of bullet holes, and with sections that must have suffered mortar attacks. The civil war was more than twenty-five years ago and Mostar still shows open wounds.
Apartment building in Mostar with bullet holes
Before our trip to the Balkans, I read a book Simon had left in our apartment in Vancouver. “The Bosnia List” by Kenan Trebincivic and Susan Shapiro. A gripping read shedding light on a conflict I had merely watched on the news from the comfort of my apartment in Denmark.
I visited a cemetery near the center of town and it was upsetting to see the year 1993 on many tombstones. Lots of men, only 20-21 years old. So young. There were flowers and pictures on the tombstones. A truly sobering sight.
I knew about the conflict back in the nineties but never understood the full scope, gravity, or severity of it. I probably still do not but my walk around Mostar on this early November morning made a lasting impression on me.
Graveyard in Mostar with many tombstones
I was approached by a gentleman, a tour guide with noticeable scars from the war, on his ear and head. He insisted I take his private tour of Mostar at a cost of €20.00. He showed me pictures of his daughter on an iPhone and I noticed signs of desperation on his face.
As he continued his story he was putting more and more pressure on me, to the point where it became quite uncomfortable, and I had to ask him to stop when he started following me.
Graveyard in Mostar
Three Countries in One Day
We hit the road right after breakfast and decided on a scenic route to the Adriatic coast in Croatia, and then south, back to Montenegro.
It would be three countries in one day. We passed through wetlands around Park prirode Hutovo blato and stopped along the lake for a few photos. Unfortunately, the pull-outs also seem to commonly be used as a garbage dump. It was the case almost everywhere we stopped :(
The blue Skoda was a champ climbing the pass and through a beautiful mountain plateau. There was evidence of road construction and once we got around the valley we could see the other end and the new highway. Lots of infrastructure plans to take advantage of the tourist traffic it seems.
Mountain selfie in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Croatia
Back on the Adriatic Coast in Croatia, the roads improved and the drive was very enjoyable with views of the sea. We stopped for a break at a lookout with sunshine and enjoyed the 20 degrees warm weather. Beautiful.
Our stomachs told us it was almost time for lunch so we identified a coffee shop, Vapor, on the Rijeka Dubrovacka Inlet with its narrow roads along the harbor. It looked quiet, very quaint, and had a local vibe.
We half suspected the coffee shop would be closed, and it was. It was still a rewarding drive around the inlet as we imagined the traffic on a busy summer day. But no lunch was found.
Following the quaint and narrow road around the Rijeka Dubrovacka Inlet in Croatia
Heading back through Dubrovnik, we stuck with the plan and did not make a stop. However, when we got to the top of the hill on the other side of Dubrovnik, we could not help but pull over and have a look from a distance. Impressive indeed but we have no regrets! Next time perhaps.
We stopped at another lookout further up the hill and took a few more photos. Although we had not succeeded in finding a good lunch spot we thoroughly enjoyed our drive down through the southern part of Croatia.
Birds eye view of Dubrovnik in Croatia from the highway
We were still on the lookout for a place to get coffee overlooking the water, but no luck. Yet another lookout though, with trees, and benches and we had a quick afternoon nap in the sun. Wonderful!
There was no need to worry about the border crossings into and out of Croatia. It was less than a three-minute wait at each border. Our timing could not have been better for our drive. The rain was moving in as we neared our destination, Herceg Novi in Montenegro.
Dubrovnik
Final Thoughts on Mostar
There was so much more we could have seen or done in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We had contemplated a visit to Sarajevo and I would have liked to see Brčko, the town described in the book, “The Bosnia List”.
Mostar was in many ways a somber experience. Make sure you venture outside the touristy parts. This is where you see the real Mostar.
I am glad we chose the rental car option as it allowed us to take in the scenery at our own pace. The mountains and landscapes are gorgeous and so was our drive along the Adriatic Coast in Croatia. It is easy to see why this part of the world is so popular with travelers.
Di, taking in the view at the Adriatic Sea in Croatia
Travel Tips
Bosnia and Herzegovina is on the current agenda for future enlargement of the EU and the currency is the Bosnian Convertible Mark.
We were in Bosnia and Herzegovina for less than 24 hours and did not need cash but ATMs were easily found in Mostar. We always decline the option to secure a rate in Canadian dollars as banks charge a higher rate on the spot.
The water is safe to drink in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
We rented a car in Montenegro and drove across the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina. Make sure you have the necessary paperwork from your rental agency if you do this.
We saw plenty of tour operators offering day trips to Mostar from Kotor or Dubrovnik. We were traveling off-season, which meant limited options but keep this in mind if you are in the area during peak season.
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The photos in this post are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have made use of Fujifilm film simulations in this article.
