5-Days in Marrakech, Morocco
The narrow streets in Medina, Marrakech
Marrakech - For Better or Worse
When writing this travel blog I always contemplate my approach. Generally, I am an optimistic person. I look for the positive when relaying stories or experiences from our travels. Travel life, however, is much more than this. We sometimes feel spoiled and guilty when pessimistic thoughts creep in.
Who wants to read negative-laden content? Our trip to Morocco could easily be seen as if the glass was half empty rather than half full depending on how you choose to view it. In the paragraphs below I will illustrate the good thoughts versus the bad from our trip to Marrakech.
Countless shops in a Medina District Souk near the Jemaaa el-Fna Square
Reasons For Visiting Marrakech
Several people suggested we add Morocco to our list of countries to visit. It would be our first trip to Africa. The timing fit and we confirmed a workaway stint at a school for 4-6-year-olds and booked flights from London. We became increasingly worried as we had no response when asking for additional details about our stay.
Two days prior to our departure we received a short email indicating they could no longer host us with no further explanation given. We were very disappointed as we had really looked forward to the experience of giving back to children rather than merely visiting as tourists.
We debated whether we should still go to Morocco or not but decided; what the heck, we have the tickets, let's go.
Scooter traffic in the narrow alleys in the Medina District, Marrakech, Morocco
Flying From Luton to Marrakech
Backtracking to England, we wrapped up our England / Scotland trip with a drive through the Lake District on our way back to the airport in Luton. This was a perfect way to end our ten-day road trip where just about everything had gone well.
Arriving in Luton, our first task was to fill up our rental car. The first petrol station, as they call it here, was closed for refilling. The next would not accept our Mastercard. We gave up and returned the car half empty, expecting an additional fee. On the flip side, we received great service from the rental agent and were charged the going rate and no extra fees.
Luton airport is under construction. Today's inconvenience will be beneficial for folks down the road. The airport Wi-Fi was okay. We picked up food at a reasonable price for our Ryan Air flight. The ticket was affordable. On the flip side, you feel a bit like cattle being moved from one place to the next.
Transporting eggs in the busy streets of Marrakech
Due to the airport construction, there was no seating at the gate. Line up and wait. The window seat had no window. What can you do? The flight was full. A turbulent landing in Marrakech was thrilling, to say the least as the pilot slammed the 737 into the tarmac with a loud bang. I know, it was not his fault it was windy.
Arriving in Morocco
The airport in Marrakech is modern and welcoming. On the flip side if you take a bathroom break after your flight you will be at the back of the slow-moving customs line. Flipside again - you do not have to wait at the luggage carousel.
Our sunny destination was not so sunny. It was pouring rain. We had booked a transfer and our driver was calm and reassuring as we headed toward our Riad (hotel).
Jemaa el-Fna Square, Medina, Marrakech, Morocco
Where Not to Stay in Marrakech
We had read about Marrakech and sort of knew what to expect. It was thrilling to drive through the narrow streets inside the walls of the Medina District. Scooters, mopeds, and people everywhere.
It was one of those drives where you ask yourself; what have we done, where are they taking us? When the driver finally stopped, we were greeted by our host and led down a narrow alleyway to the riad.
We had stayed in a riad in Dubai and had some expectations. Our host was very talkative and we were welcomed with a pot of Moroccan mint tea. On the flip side, our room was on the lower level of the riad.
It was cozy but very simple. The mattress was hard as a rock, only in Oman had we encountered a harder mattress. A single sheet, no kettle, no TV (not that we needed it). One small window was facing the courtyard.
The courtyard of Riad Elias in Marrakech
Breakfast was included, and something to look forward to. On the flip side, it consists mostly of sugar-coated buns, bitter strong coffee, and jams. Our host tried hard and speaks a mix of French and English and his attitude made all the difference.
We found a way to incorporate oatmeal into the breakfast mix and I am a happy camper. A key travel survival ingredient. I do not fancy going more than a day or two without it.
During the week the hotel manager’s attitude slowly changed. Perhaps the daily grind was getting to him. Maybe he was due for a vacation, I am not sure, but the service level gradually declined over the time we were there. We have both worked in the hotel business and remember how challenging it can be.
Three young boys, hand in hand at Jemaa el-Fna Square
On the last day, we had to pay our transfer to and from the airport and a few incidental charges and the manager refused to take payment by credit card. We were out of cash as we had spent the last bit of currency before departure.
It was an unpleasant and disappointing way to end our stay at the Riad Elias as he put up quite a fuss. We ended up paying by credit card.
Had we known this we could have made arrangements to help him out. We had booked with Expedia and paid $53.00 per night. Given the chance, we would not book at Riad Elias again.
Planning Future Travels
Traveling as we do can be exotic, rewarding, fun, and everything you had ever hoped and imagined it would be. However, there is a flip side.
The constant need to plan ahead sometimes wrecks the whole being in-the-moment vibe. Trying to plan our next move. Trying to make the money stretch. Trying to balance visits with friends and family with new experiences.
Di is a master of Skyscanner. Combine this with Expedia and Airbnb, she knows every trick. One of the stressors in Morocco was the uncertainty regarding our next move. We had thought we would be here for about a month for the workaway. Now we are here we were not so sure.
Moroccan pottery and lamps on display, Medina Souk, Marrkech
Our short hikes in Scotland were amazing. We will never forget them but on the flip side, we have both come down with colds.
Di's cold is far worse than mine, read - chest cold, coughing like mad, interrupted sleep and rattling, catching your breath kind of cold. Between Di's coughing and a baby crying in another room, I am sure everyone in the riad was cursing us.
Marrakech is Amazing
Marrakech is an amazing place and we remind ourselves how lucky we are to be able to experience it. The markets and the souks are unlike anything we have visited thus far. The locals are friendly and smiling.
The vendors in the souks are not as pushy as we have seen in other parts of the world. It has a nice laidback feel yet is hectic in parts. Yes, there is a flip side. You have to adjust to some of the customs and in the first forty-eight hours, it can be overwhelming until you get the hang of it.
The incredible Bahia Palace in Marrakech
On the main square, a menu is stuck in your face at every turn by restaurant staff and street vendors. You know this will happen but if you are not in the mood it can be very annoying. It is, however, part of the experience and fairly easy to find another place to dine.
Prices are as low as $5 dollars for your dinner and the food is very tasty. We found several great restaurants, often with stunning views of the city and the main square.
The narrow streets are dusty and noisy and the exhaust from the scooters and mopeds leaves you dizzy at times. This is cool for photos, and interesting to witness and yet it takes time to adjust. In the souks, we are amazed at the colorful fabrics and Moroccan pottery.
Boys at play in the streets of Marrkech
If our suitcases were larger we wouldn't mind a few souvenirs but we are not here to shop. We paid a visit to the Royal Palace of Marrakech. At times it felt like we had the place to ourselves. The colors of the Bahia Palace were a striking contrast to the bright blue sky.
Maison de la Photographie Museum
The more I work with monochrome images the more I know would have enjoyed living in the early twentieth century. This was affirmed during our visit to the Maison de la Photographie, a photography museum in Marrakech with photos from the first European photographers exploring Morocco.
A worthwhile visit with amazing stories and images. The rooftop coffee wasn't bad either.
One of the highlight in Marrakech. A visit to Maison de la Photographie.
Street Photography in Marrakech
Street photography was not as easy as I expected, despite an abundance of topics to photograph. The Moroccans would very often put a hand up signaling not to take photos, or they would cover their faces. They would spot me a mile away.
I was respectful and complied whenever I was met with these objections. On the other hand, I was in Marrakech to do street photography, so I welcomed the challenge and practiced candid photography as much as possible.
Final Thoughts on Marrakech
We spent five days in Marrakech trying to find our groove. The meals were good and inexpensive. We frequented the juice stands at Jemaa el-Fna Square and also ventured outside the walled city and found a more modern Morocco than we had seen the first few days.
However, the lasting memory will be the narrow streets and alleys of the Medina District with the souks and countless shops with an abundance of food and colorful goods.
We took our leave from Morocco and headed for Lisbon via Casablanca, just as thousands of delegates were arriving for the Cop22 climate change conference.
Countless alleys in the Medina District of Marrkech
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The photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Lightroom. I have used Fujifilm film simulation for the photos in this post.
