Cyprus Road Trip

Hiking along Wild Beach north of Paphos on the west coast of Cyprus

Cyprus By Car

After our tour of the Balkans, we were determined that it should be possible to find and enjoy warmer weather, even though we were traveling in early December.

We considered Israel and Jordan and did a fair amount of research before canceling this plan. Our main concerns were the travel budget and available time.

Accommodation prices were higher than what we were comfortable with, but as we only had about a week on our calendar, we felt it was not enough time to see this part of the world.

The quiet streets of Paphos in southwest Cyprus

Back to the drawing board. Cyprus had been on our radar a few times as a possible destination. It is an island sun destination, and flights are fairly easy to find.

We devised a plan that involved landing in Larnaca in the southeast and driving across the Island to Paphos in the southwest, where we would stay for five of our six nights in Cyprus.

An affordable departing flight from Paphos to Bratislava, which fit our dates, sealed the deal. We were excited as our driver taxied us to the airport in Belgrade in the wee hours of a cold December morning for our flight to Larnaca, Cyprus.

Cyprus by car. The Troodos Mountains.

Belgrade to Cyprus Flight

We should probably count the number of flights we have taken during our 5050 travel project, but we have not done that yet.

Maybe the thought of our carbon footprint on the planet keeps us from doing so. Some flights are forgettable, and some will forever stick with you.

The views during our Belgrade to Cyprus flight were truly magnificent, and the sight of the snow-covered Taurus Mountains running parallel to the Mediterranean coast will not soon be forgotten.

Cyprus is located due south of Turkey bordering the Middle East. As the crows fly, Beirut, Lebanon, is only 207 km from Larnaca, Cyprus.

Our Cyprus rental car. A VW Golf from Sixt. Almost a clone of our car at home. Only the steering wheel is on the right-hand side.

Car Rental

Our rental car, a VW Golf from Sixt, was an excellent choice. It is automatic and almost a clone of the car we drive at home. Only they drive on the left-hand side of the road in Cyprus, and hence, the steering wheel is on the right.

The friendly rental agent was a British retiree who had chosen a warm climate for her later years. She worked a few shifts a week to supplement her income—an option that is now in doubt after Brexit.

The cost to pick up the car at the Larnaca International Airport and drop it off at the airport in Paphos was $75.00. Our car rental only allowed us to drive in South Cyprus, so if you plan to travel to North Cyprus, make sure you check with your car rental staff for the proper permissions.

The beach near Aphrodite's Rock in Cyprus

Cyprus Road Trip Map

We started our road trip at Larnaca International Airport. The first destination on our agenda was the east coast to Ayia Napa Sea Caves. From here, the trip went to Limassol, where we spent the first night.

Then, we visited Mount Olympos, the town of Omodos, Aphrodite’s Rock, and finally, Paphos, where we stayed for five nights. We also took a day trip to Wild Beach and Coral Beach along the West Coast.

Cyprus road trip starting in Larnaca. First stop Ayia Napa, then Limassol, Mount Olympos, Omodos, Aphrodite’s Rock, Paphos, and Wild Beach. Click to view a larger map.

Ayia Napa Sea Caves

Arriving from Belgrade, we were thrilled to feel the sun with warmer weather and temperatures in the low twenties. We quickly stopped at a Lidl supermarket to grab some water and a few items for lunch.

As we were waiting in line, chatting in Danish, the woman in front of us turned around and asked how we liked Cyprus.

Another retired couple, this time resettled from Denmark. Perhaps this is a theme for Cyprus? After a quick bite in the parking lot, we changed into shorts, sandals, shades, and sunscreen.

The drive from the airport to the Ayia Napa Sea Caves is about 45 minutes, and it was time to get out, stretch our legs, and feel the sea breeze.

The Ayia Napa Sea Caves in Cyprus

On this leg of our travels, we have seen our fair share of sea cliffs, and although it was refreshing to be by the Mediterranean Sea on this gorgeous day, the sea caves themselves perhaps did not impress us as much as the fact that we were in the sun and by the sea.

We drove back along the coast towards the town of Ayia Napa and stopped at a sandy beach near the Love Bridge for a bit of R&R before setting the GPS for Limassol.

The entrance to a home in Omodos

One Night in Limassol

Limassol is a busy tourist hub along the south coast of Cyprus. To break up our drive to Paphos, we picked a nice hotel with a sea view. The Harmony Bay Hotel was $63.00 for one night and included a breakfast buffet.

The room was nothing to write home about, nor did we have any issues. We arrived late afternoon, just in time to enjoy the sun setting in the west over the sea while sipping a glass of budget red from the supermarket.

After a long travel day, we opted to attend the hotel's evening dinner buffet. The service and food were great.

Stuffed and rich in new experiences, we had an early night. The next day, we had a road trip through the Troodos Mountains to Paphos mapped out.

Sunset at the Harmony Bay Hotel in Limassol, Cyprus

Troodos Mountains

As you leave Limassol, the terrain changes kilometer by kilometer. The temperature dropped as we drove north into the Troodos Mountains, and the winding roads became narrower as we gained elevation. Having lived in British Columbia for close to three decades, we felt right at home.

When we finally reached the summit of Mount Olympos and got out of the car, we were met by the most wonderful smell in the cool morning air: the scent of Cyprus trees. It reminded us of years spent at Silver Star Mountain in British Columbia, Canada.

Cyprus's trees are predominantly Pines, Cedars, Cypresses, Casuarinas, golden Oaks, Eucalyptus, golden Wattles, and Wild Olives. Yes, I had to Google this to be sure, but I wanted to list the tree sorts as the smell in the air was very enticing.

The beautiful trees in the Troodos Mountains

The Town of Omodos

We did a short hike at the summit and continued our road trip through winding mountain roads, small towns, and scenic viewpoints. Google Maps occasionally sent us in circles, but we were only slightly lost driving through some of the small towns.

It was a great way to get off the beaten track. Several small towns tempted us to stop for a coffee and a bite.

After skipping a few towns, we settled on Omodos. A stroll through Omodos revealed a cozy village with dozens of small artisan shops, restaurants, and cafés.

Plants in front of an artisan shop in Omodos, Cyprus.

We stopped at a wine shop and had a brief tour of the basement, which housed a quaint wine museum. We could have spent hours exploring this whimsical village.

A café on the sunny side of the street in the town square drew us in, and we were thankful for soaking up the sun and drinking delicious coffees outdoors on this beautiful December day.

Omodos is famous for the Timios Stavros Monastery and is in a popular wine region. We drove by several wineries on our trip, so if your goal is to sample local wines, this region of Cyprus is a must-see.

Afternoon coffee at a café in the town square of Omodos, Cyprus

Aphrodite’s Rock

En route to Paphos, we planned a stop at Aphrodite’s Rock, Petra Tou Romiou. Parking is across the street and an excellent stop for a walk along the beach.

It was a bit too cold to swim, but we took a quick nap, had a snack, and explored the beach. The myth has it that this was the birthplace of Aphrodite.

Aphrodite's Rock on the south shore of Cyprus

5 Days in Paphos

Our research pinpointed Paphos as the more laid-back city of the three main choices in Cyprus. Larnaca and Limassol are the other two. Our experience with Larnaca and Limassol was limited, but Paphos hit the spot for being quaint, cozy, and colorful.

The Artemis Cynthia Complex is an apartment complex with self-contained condos and two pools. Since we planned to cook our own meals and work for part of our stay, the unit was well-suited and had all the amenities we needed, including laundry.

The pool looked inviting, but was too cold for our taste—it was December, after all. However, we did have decent Wi-Fi by the pool, and we managed to blog and do more travel planning while pretending to be ready for a swim at any given moment.

Paphos Walking Tour

As is our standard operating procedure when staying in a new city, we found a walking tour online and signed up for one on our first day in Paphos. The weather was phenomenal, and it was a wonderful stroll through town squares, narrow alleys, and key historical points of interest.

We picked tangerines from a tree and learned about the town's history. The current strides to revive Paphos’ old mercantile district into a new and thriving hub with artisan shops, restaurants, and cafés will certainly be worth a visit in the future.

Walking tour in Paphos, Cyprus

Day Trip to Wild Beach and Coral Beach

Our rental car allowed us to explore the west coast north of Paphos. Wild Beach was about an hour’s drive from our complex. We wandered the beach for a while and found a quiet corner to rest and swim.

There was hardly anyone at the beach, maybe one or two other couples. It was magical. At first, the water was cold, but as soon as you were in, it was refreshing and invigorating.

Di is taking in the views at Wild Beach north of Paphos

At Coral Beach, we stopped for a quick walk but decided it was time to find an ice cream shop. Beaches and ice cream are a winning combination. We found a shop with an ice cream sign, but the lady in the store said; It’s December, too cold for ice cream!

On the drive back, we drove along the coastline and saw many condo developments under construction amidst the banana fields.

Swimming at Wild Beach in Cyprus

Final Thoughts on Cyprus

We can honestly say we enjoyed almost every minute spent in Cyprus. It was so relaxing. Cyprus is very modern, and it makes life easy for travelers.

We met several British citizens who had retired here or taken refuge for the winter. Much like Canadian snowbirds heading for Mexico or Arizona every winter. We could certainly see the lure and were smitten by the idea.

Cyprus was never about sightseeing for us, and there is a long list of attractions we could have visited in Paphos and other spots on the island.

Di is picking tangerines in the streets of Paphos

It was convenient to have the rental car, and I feel we explored much more than we would have had we landed at the airport and merely taken a shuttle to a beach resort.

We did everyday stuff in Cyprus, like shopping for groceries and having our iPhone screen fixed at a wonderful family-run business in one of the subdivisions of Paphos.

The condo in Paphos was a perfect base and we did some writing, cooking, relaxing, wining, dining, blogging, editing, and sleeping on repeat :)

The Municipal Baths in Paphos

Travel Tips

  • Cyprus is a member of the EU. Its official languages are Greek and Turkish, and its currency is the Euro.

  • We had no trouble finding ATMs or using our credit cards—it was almost too easy. When using ATMs, we always declined the option to secure a rate in Canadian dollars, as banks charge a higher rate on the spot.

  • We used only bottled water for drinking in Cyprus.

  • Supermarkets are modern and have a complete selection of food, fruits, vegetables, wine, liquor, and beer.

  • Make sure you have permission to drive into North Cyprus for your car rental if this is on your agenda.

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The photos in this post were made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have made use of Fujifilm film simulations in the post.