Two Days in Bagan, Myanmar
Exploring the temples and pagodas in Bagan by scooter
Bagan Pagodas and Temple Adventure
Exploring Bagan by Scooter
From the ninth to the thirteenth century, Bagan was the capital city of the Pangan Kingdom, and more than ten thousand Buddhist temples, monasteries, and pagodas were constructed on the plains in and near Old Bagan.
To this day 2,200 still remain and on a January day, we found ourselves on a minibus on our way to see at least some of them and to explore Old Bagan.
Bus From Mandalay to Bagan
Our bus ride from Mandalay to Bagan was about five hours long on a small commuter minibus. At one point the bus was full and ad-hoc seats were made to sit in the center aisle.
Sunrise, a hot air balloon, temples and pagodas on the horizon in Bagan, Myanmar
The roads in Myanmar are bumpy but there is constantly something happening along the way with people getting off and on the bus and vendors approaching the bus with goods and snacks for sale.
We booked with OK Express Minibus and paid $16.00 each. As they say, part of the journey is getting there and we had read that the bus rides can be somewhat of a challenge and not that comfortable.
I would have to say, we were positively surprised. The bus stopped for a lunch break and a reasonable amount of time was given to hit a bathroom or to stretch your legs.
Passengers onboard the OK Express Mini Bus from Mandalay to Bagan in Myanmar
BaobaBed Hostel
We paid $35.00 per night for three nights at the BaobaBed Hostel in Bagan.
BaobaBed is a typical hostel, with young, friendly, and helpful staff, a pool table in the lobby, and a rooftop pool and bar which had live entertainment or a DJ in the evening. We had a private room with a standard bath. Nothing spectacular but comfortable.
We settled into our room and moved the two single beds together and made a queen out of it. We hung out at the hostel and in our room for the evening, still a bit queasy after the stomach issues I had earlier in the day. We had a very light dinner from the hostel bar.
The roof top pool at the BaobaBed Hostel in Bagan, Myanmar
Bumpy Start in Bagan
While I was feeling better Di now became horribly sick thought most of the night. We finally managed to get some sleep in the wee hours. When we woke up we didn’t feel adventurous despite the luring attractions just outside our door.
We had toast and fruit for breakfast and went straight back to the room for a nap, exhausted. We thought; maybe we would head out after lunch. We had noodles for lunch and I did some photo editing but the energy level was still low.
The hostel was arranging a sunset scooter trip late afternoon, so we signed up and decided more rest was in order which was a good decision. By the time the sunset trip departed we had rented a scooter and were ready to go.
The scooter trip took us to a viewpoint by the Irrawaddy River in Bagan
Sunset Scooter Trip
The sunset scooter trip wasn’t as much a guided tour as it was “Follow us to where you can see the sunset, check out the sunset, then follow us back to the hostel”.
It was actually okay, very low-key, but I think we had expected more of a tour to a few different spots. In hindsight, it was perfect for us as it was a good way to gradually get back into adventure mode again.
The atmosphere by the Irrawaddy River was indeed serene. A couple of young men were fishing in the River and we stayed a while till the sun dipped down over the Rakhine Yoma mountain range.
Two young men were fishing by the Irrawaddy River as the sun set over the Rakhine Yoma mountain range
Exploring the Temples and Pagodas of Bagan
You cannot underestimate the value of a good night’s sleep while on the road. We woke up well-rested and ready for our 5 am e-scooter pick-up, $5 for the day. We headed out right away to seek out good spots to view the hot air balloons flying quietly over the plains.
While the hot air balloon ride looks amazing we found the $300.00+ per person price tag too steep and decided to keep both feet on the ground and view things from our scooter.
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
We were not too concerned about “must-see spots” on our morning ride. We did find our way to the Sulmuni manmade hill which gave a great panoramic view of the plains.
Although we saw many other sunrise explorers on this January morning there was a wonderful and respectful etiquette among travelers.
Hot air balloon ride over Bagan
Everyone was very quiet and no one was pushing to get the best spots for photos. It was magical to see the sunrise over the pagodas, to watch and listen to the birdlife, and to see the hot air balloons drifting by.
The vast majority traveled the plains by e-scooter, another big plus, as they make very little noise.
Breakfast and Laundry
Along with a new appetite for adventure we had our appetite for food back. We returned to the hostel for a big breakfast and collected our laundry which was drying outside.
Work and play in Bagan
The Market in Bagan
Looking ahead to the next move we wanted to pick up a few snacks for the long bus ride from Bagan to Inle Lake. We had the scooter so it was easy to head to the center of Old Bagan where we parked by a huge market, which was spread over a few blocks.
It was largely a fresh food market with everything from fruit and vegetables to rice, meats, nuts, seeds, and spices. The market is partially covered and you walk through a maze of narrow alleys with sights, sounds, and scents surrounding you. Nearby we found what we were looking for in a convenience store.
A woman tends to a stand at a fish market in Bagan, Myanmar
Temples and Pagoda Tour by Scooter
After our practicalities were done we were back on the scooter again with an aim to visit 14 “not to be missed” pagodas. It was going to be an adventurous afternoon.
Di was on the back of the scooter with a real map and Google Maps yelling left, right, no the other right. It was a ton of fun.
Below is a map of some of the highlights in Bagan.
Map of the pagodas and temples in Bagan, Myanmar
We quickly realized that one afternoon was not enough to explore the endless number of pagodas, temples, and monasteries.
You could spend days if not weeks. It was, however, fascinating to scooter up and down the dusty roads of the plains. If a pagoda looked interesting we would stop but some just circled and quickly moved on. There are just so many.
Shwezigon Pagoda
The Shwezigon Pagoda, completed in 1102, was the first stop on our list and probably the most spectacular. You could perhaps argue that you should save Shwezigon for last. The gold leaf-gilded stupa and surrounding temples and shrines are without a doubt an impressive sight.
Shwezigon Pagoda in Bagan, Myanmar
We walked the grounds for a while in awe at the sheer spectacle, watched Buddhist monks in prayer, and tourists snapping selfies in the sun.
Ananda Temple
Second, we decided to stop at the Ananda Temple, a Buddhist temple built in 1105. Nicknamed, "Westminster Abbey of Burma" Ananda Temple is hailed as an architectural wonder.
An earthquake destroyed it in 1975 but it was completely restored and looks fantastic. Many of the temples and pagodas in the region are currently under structural and chemical conservation.
The Ananda Temple in Bagan, Myanmar
Outside the Ananda Temple vendors have stalls set up along the entrance offering souvenirs, clothing, and memorabilia but it never felt over the top.
The late afternoon sun was getting lower on the horizon but the light that found its way to the open courtyard was warm and created an amazing aura. It is the kind of place, if you have been there, you likely never forget.
We managed to visit twelve spots on our list before heading to the sunset spot near the Pyathegui Pagoda. In no particular order here is a list of the most noteworthy. Kyauk Myat Maw Pagoda, Inn Pagoda, Dhammayan Gyi Temple, Sulamani Temple.
Diana in the courtyard of the Ananda Temple in Bagan, Myanmar
The sunset spot near the Pyathegui Pagado was very crowded and we decided to skip the sunset and did another last stint along the plains at dusk.
Our scooter almost died on the way back to the hostel. We only just made it and swapped it for another so that we had a mode of transportation to get us to dinner.
Our Last Evening in Bagan
Di found us a great restaurant, “Weather Spoon’s Bagan”. The location was amazing near the Shwezigon Pagoda.
After dinner, we hit the rooftop bar for a well-deserved drink and live music.
Weather Spoon’s Bagan Restaurant near the Shwezigon Pagoda
Final Thoughts
If this is your first time visiting our blog a quick reminder that we are currently in our mid-fifties and as we arrived in Bagan things were a bit challenging.
Sleep-deprived and both with varied sorts of stomach issues, it took us a day to get ready for Bagan. I am sure this happens to younger travelers as well and these are the bumps on the road you have to overcome.
Bagan sunrise scooter tour
After we regained our usual stride Bagan was everything we could have hoped for in a travel destination. So radically different in culture and sights from our usual Scandinavian/Canadian surroundings.
In essence, Bagan delivered an epiphany moment of travel. These were the kind of adventures, ups, and downs, and awe moments, that we were hoping to experience when we started our travel project 4+ years earlier.
Read our next post from Myanmar:
Scooter trip selfie in Bagan, Myanmar
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The photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I used Fujifilm film simulations for some of the photos.
