Northern Ireland Road Trip
Di at the end of rainbow at Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland
Northern Ireland Itinerary, 3-4 Days
Our trip through Northern Ireland was part of a 10-day trip that included Ireland as well.
Growing up we had heard of "the troubles" between Catholics and protestants, between Northern Ireland, and Ireland but we did not have a clear sense of understanding of what took place.
We had also heard mention of Northern Ireland’s rich heritage and beautiful nature. It was time to see what the talk was all about.
If you want more detailed information about the Emerald Isle, make sure to also check our post from Ireland as well.
Road Trip Map - Ireland and Northern Ireland
The map for our 10-day road trip through Ireland and Northern Ireland. In Northern Ireland, we started out in Derry~Londonderry and continued along the north shore to Dunluce Castle, Giant’s Causeway, White Park Bay, and The Dark Hedges. We stayed at Glassdrumman in Saintfield near Belfast for three nights and then continued south towards Dublin.
Please click to view a larger map.
Derry~Londonderry
The Bridge B&B in Derry~Londonderry
We arrived around 4 pm to late afternoon traffic. I gave myself a pat on the back for a successful parallel parking job on the first attempt and a pat on Di’s back for finding this little gem of a B&B. The Bridge B&B is located right by the Craigavon Bridge within a short walking distance of the historic walls.
We paid £67.00, $91.00, and stayed for one night. The rate included a sumptuous breakfast buffet with hot and cold offerings.
My heart rejoiced when I realized my go-to breakfast from home, oatmeal with Alpen muesli, was an option.
It may not have been the most exciting menu item but it was my choice for the day. We can certainly recommend the Bridge B&B if you are considering a stay in Derry~Londonderry.
Derry~Londonderry view from the historic city walls in Northern Ireland
Exploring the Historic City Walls of Derry~Londonderry
Our Airbnb host in Carrick insisted if we stopped in Derry~Londonderry we had to walk the historic city walls. After check-in, we made a quick turnaround and ventured out to explore. We immediately felt a good vibe, perhaps because it was Friday night in the city.
The city walls were quite impressive. The only fully walled city in Ireland, the walls are up to 6 meters high, 20 feet, and 10 meters, 33 feet, thick. They form a 1.5 km, 0.9 miles, oval around the city core which never has been breached.
We arrived too late to catch the last walking tour of the day, and in hindsight, we suggest planning your visit to join in. There are thirteen different walking tour options listed on the free VisitDerry Visitor Map or their website.
The historic city walls in Derry~Londonderry
As an alternative, each of the stops along the wall has a plaque with detailed descriptions. Di read up on the history as we walked along the walls and in my usual fashion, I snapped away in the late afternoon sun.
We wandered for a bit and found our way across the Peace Bridge. This futuristic-looking pedestrian and bike bridge crosses the River Foyle and was opened in 2011.
A stated goal is to bring the largely unionist “Waterside” and the largely nationalist “Cityside” communities closer together.
We walked back through the City Hall which was decked out in Halloween splendor. All in all, we were taken with the atmosphere in Derry-Londonderry on a pleasant fall evening.
The Peace Bridge in Derry-Londonderry, Northern Ireland
Road Trip Along the Antrim Coast
Dunluce Castle
We left Derry~Londonderry and could not believe our luck. We were looking at sunshine and pleasant temperatures for our entire road trip along the Antrim Coast. Or at least we thought so.
The first stop along the route was at Dunluce Castle, a medieval castle with ruins from the 1500s located on the Antrim Coast where the North Atlantic meets the North Channel.
The drive to Dunluce Castle is 60 kilometers, 37 miles, from Derry~Londonderry and takes about an hour. The entrance fee was £5.50 per person.
The ruins at Dunluce Castle, Antrim Coast, Northern Ireland
We started off our visit with a short video before entering the grounds. It was astounding to see how the castle came under attack from all angles, from the Scots, across the sea to the north, from the English, across the sea to the east, and from the Gaelic chieftains, across the land to the south.
These were the times of territorial battles to gain influence and status.
It was much calmer for our visit on this beautiful late October day. Although the castle is in ruins you can still see the main walls, watchtowers, and many architectural features such as the location of fireplaces and main floor beams.
In this setting, it is not hard to imagine what life might have been like hundreds of years ago.
Legend has it, the kitchen was swept away in a storm and only one boy sitting in a corner of the kitchen survived the ordeal. If you drive the Antrim Coast you will want to make a stop here. Plan to spend about an hour.
Dunluce Castle on the Antrim Coast, Northern Ireland
Giant’s Causeway
Although the Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage site, we had very low expectations. There are two reasons for this.
For one, we typically shy away from overly touristy-oriented destinations. Secondly, we had heard comments from other travelers who were disappointed. Having already visited Black Sand Beach in Iceland, we wondered if it would be significantly different.
As we arrived on a sunny Saturday morning, we confirmed that this is a very popular tourist destination. The tour buses gave it away. The new info center and parking facilities were indeed impressive and architecturally appealing with a design reminiscent of the causeway rock formation.
We politely declined the £25.00 (£12.50 each, $17.00) price for entry to the visitors center/parking and opted for £8.00 parking a few hundred meters down the road at the Bushmills Railways upper station car lot.
At the end of the lot farthest from the buildings, there is a gate and path which leads to the Giant’s Causeway.
Giant’s Causeway along the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland
Make sure you slot in at least a couple of hours for the Giant's Causeway and perhaps more if you want to explore the visitors center or have lunch.
It quickly became apparent this stop was going to take much longer than we had anticipated. Prior to arrival, we had allocated half an hour. I guess we had not done our homework.
There is a shuttle bus from the back of the visitor center to the main attraction. A small fee is payable in £ or € to the bus driver. It was €1.20 for a single or €2.30 for a return. As we would be in the car most of the day, we opted to walk.
It took us about 20 minutes downhill to reach the causeway. Lots of people flock to this attraction, especially on a sunny Saturday at the start of the midterm break. I can only imagine the hordes of people during the summer months.
Giant’s Causeway, Antrim Coast, Northern Ireland
Despite more tourists than we have become accustomed to and our low expectations, once we basked in the sunshine and adjusted our mindset, the Giant's Causeway was rather enjoyable.
The natural phenomena creating the hexagonal-shaped rocks are the result of volcanic activity when the lava was cooling and breaking rapidly, some 50 million years ago. Or as legend has it, the Giants built it.
To save some time, and our legs, we took the bus back up the hill and grabbed an americano at the small coffee shop in the railway building.
They had a cute sign in their washrooms - Feel free to use our facilities in your time of need. But if you are wondering… our coffee is pretty great!
The rock formation at Giant’s Causeway on the Antrim Coast
White Park Bay
Rolling on, our route took us via White Park Bay. The views of the bay were out of this world. We pulled over and photographed it from all angles.
As far as the eye could see, we were looking at the most pristine coastline with white sandy beaches. It looks like the kind of place where you could spend weeks on end.
I struck up a conversation with a local road cyclist. He asked; “Why would anyone from Canada come here for the scenery?”
Although Canada is a tremendously beautiful country, we could agree it is wonderful to see new things and Northern Ireland delivers a different kind of beauty.
Beach view at White Park Bay along the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland
Dark Hedges
If we were Game of Thrones fans, our friend Will suggested we stop by Ballintoy Harbour where a scene from season two had been filmed.
While doing research the night before, the Dark Hedges came up as another GOT film location. I was immediately drawn in but thinking it would be too far off our path, and initially wrote it off.
Except for a few episodes, we have not followed GOT much. Di read the books. I kept thinking about the Dark Hedges so after a quick stop at Ballintoy Harbour we checked the time and decided to go for it.
Saturday walk at the Dark Hedges, Northern Ireland
Parking is found at the nearby Dark Hedges Hotel. Head towards the small building at the edge of the forest to pay £2.00 to the Dark Hedges visitors center for parking. Walk along the mulched path for a few minutes to Bregagh Road.
After an episode of Game of Thrones was filmed here, the popularity of the Dark Hedges exploded and the road was closed to preserve this special gem.
From a photography perspective, the chance to photograph the wicked tree formations was something I did not want to miss.
The trees were originally planted by the Stuart family around 1775 to create an impressive entrance to their estate. On this Sunday afternoon, there were a few other visitors but it was not too crowded.
It was a nice stroll in the countryside. Unfortunately, some of the trees had carvings from people trying to leave their mark. If you are in the area, swing by. You will not regret it.
A black and white capture from The Dark Hedges, Northern Ireland
Torr
Back to the Antrim coast for the last stretch of driving for the day. Our route had us going to Torr in the northeast corner of Northern Ireland.
A storm was brewing and for a while, we drove on the edge of it. We had beautiful sunshine to the southeast and dark storm clouds rolling in from the northwest. The road turned quite narrow and very steep just as the rain came.
It was fantastic to witness the polar opposites in the weather patterns; typical for the north coast.
We put on a playlist of Celtic songs which set the scene spectacularly. Although I do not have photos to support my recommendation, this drive should definitely be on your travel bucket list.
Glassdrumman Cottage near Saintfield, Northern Ireland
Saintfield
When we decided we were going to Northern Ireland I sent a message to Janine and William who live in Saintfield near Belfast. The message in short read; We are coming through your neck of the woods… can we crash at your place?
When I was at Putnam Station Inn/Mountain Vacation Homes at Silver Star Mountain I got to know Janine and William as we rented out their vacation home.
As it happened we were in their Silver Star home in September updating interior photos. Janine and Will lived in Al Ain for a number of years and when we were in the United Arab Emirates in 2016 they were thrilled to see our take and offered suggestions of things to see and do there.
A very kind reply came back; they would get the Glassdrumman Cottage ready for us and sent suggestions for places to visit on our way to Saintfield. We had a warm welcome, including an introduction to their sons Brian and Niall. We hope to meet Anna next time.
Before dinner drinks were served as we caught up on the past, and then an amazing dinner was prepared by Will. A nightcap, Slainte, by the fire and we were pinching ourselves as we settled in for the night in their stunning cottage.
The rolling hills around Saintfield
A Tour of Historic Sites in County Down, Northern Ireland
Will is a history buff and very proud of his heritage. We were incredibly fortunate to spend the day with him as we toured County Down. He promised 5000 years of history in 5 hours! Camera packed, we were ready to explore.
Giant’s Ring in Lagan Valley
The first stop of the day was at the Giant’s Ring Monument, a large indented circle in the earth dating back to 2700 BC, and one of the finest examples of Neolithic ruins in England and Ireland. It is approximately 200 meters, 219 yards, in diameter with 3.8 meters, 12.5 ft, high banks.
Archeological pottery found on site suggest it was used for ceremonial gatherings. Now it is a popular spot for Sunday walks with family and friends, human and canine alike.
Giant’s Ring in Lagan Valley, Northern Ireland
Slieve Croob
Time to work off the wonderful dinner and wine from the night before. A hike to the 534-meter, 1,752-foot, peak of Slieve Croob was next on our agenda.
The fresh air blowing in over the hills was immediately invigorating. Sheep were grazing in the scenic foothills as we climbed. We thought we might get wet, but the clouds moved off in the opposite direction.
Slieve Croob is also known as the home of the Twelve Cairns, the remains of a prehistoric burial cairn were found at the peak. A rewarding view is revealed as you approach the summit.
It seems as if you can see all of Northern Ireland from here. The Mourne Mountains to the south, Belfast to the north, and endless green fields neatly separated by hedges, as far as you can see.
Fields and landscape of Northern Ireland as seen from Slieve Croob
Nendrum Monastery
We continued to drive through the idyllic landscape en route to Strangford Lough and Mahee Island where the Nendrum Monastery is located on the shores.
The monastery dates back to 500 AD and has three round dry-stone walled enclosures inside one another. The center ring includes a church, sundial, round tower, and graveyard.
It is thought to be the best example of a pre-Norman monastic site in Northern Ireland. There is really good interpretive signage throughout the site.
Di read while I took photos, and William explored as we all marveled at the ruins in the late afternoon sun. We understood why the monks would have chosen this spot as we took in the magnificent views of Strangford Lough.
Nendrum Monastic Site, Northern Ireland
Scrabo Tower
Our final stop of the day took us to Scrabo Hill and the Scrabo Tower which was built in 1859 and originally called the Londonderry Monument.
The tower was built to commemorate the third Marquees of Londonderry, Charles William Stewart. A short walk to the base of the tower and we were rewarded with a sweeping sunset view of the countryside.
A huge thanks to William for this informative and eye-opening day. Northern Ireland has so much history and many wonderful sights.
These few paragraphs do not do it justice. William had more stories and historical facts about all of the sights we saw. He is truly a walking encyclopedia.
Another delicious dinner followed by wine and conversation by the fire wrapped up this wonderful day.
Scrabo Tower, Northern Ireland
Belfast
Black Cab Tour of Belfast
Janine works as a physician in Belfast and kindly gave us a ride to the city. Splendid, as it saved us the worry of city driving and parking.
As an added bonus, we were able to see her clinic and meet several of her colleagues. Janine booked us a Black Cab Tour of Belfast with a driver she knew.
Our guide picked us up at the clinic and confirmed we were aware the tour was political in nature. Yes please, we wanted to learn more about “the troubles” and Ireland’s recent history.
Our tour would be about 90 minutes and take us through the area of the Falls and the Shankill.
Black Cab Tour along one of the many walls separating the Falls and the Shankill in Belfast
Our guide vividly recounted the historical events and timeline as we toured several sites. He explained many people believe it is solely a religious dispute, Catholics versus protestants, but from his perspective, it is more about the relationship with Great Britain and governance.
Nationalists, who tend to be catholic want one Ireland, and Loyalists, who tend to be protestant want to maintain the connection to Britain.
We were surprised to learn there are close to one hundred walls separating the two sides. More walls today than at the height of the conflict.
Some of the walls have gates to allow passage during the day but they are closed off at night. The first gates close at 6 pm each night and the last gates close around 11 pm.
We had many questions and our guide answered them all to the best of his ability and generously shared his personal experiences with us.
There is a movement to bring down the walls but a 2015 survey from Ulster University found more than half of the population in the affected areas feel safe and would prefer to keep the peace walls in place.
Summer of 69 mural in the Shankill, Belfast, Northern Ireland
We asked about day-to-day interactions in 2019. Our guide is a protestant and lives in the Shankill. He rarely shops or visits the other side in his private life, only during the Black Cab tours.
His son has a good friend from the Falls and they would always meet in a neutral area, such as downtown Belfast, to watch a football game or grab a beer. They would not visit one another’s homes.
A striking photo display along one section of the wall has images of walls or barriers separating different countries and cities around the world. It was a very somber moment as the old taxi whisked us by.
If you would like to know more about the history of the conflicts in Northern Ireland when you visit, we highly recommend a Black Cab Tour.
Bring Down The Walls, Belfast, Northern Ireland
Titanic Museum
Our guide dropped us off at Belfast’s iconic claim to fame. The Titanic was built in Belfast and the spectacular Titanic Museum shares the history of shipbuilding in Belfast and the story of the most horrendous maritime disaster.
The Titanic sank on April 15th, 1912 after hitting an iceberg on its maiden voyage from Southhampton to New York.
Tickets to the museum are £19.00 each, $25.85, and £1.00 for a locker to store your bags. There are 4 levels, a gift shop, and two cafeteria-style venues. It is a very popular attraction in Belfast and probably a bit busier than usual when we visited due to the school holidays.
The build-up to the actual Titanic portion of the exhibition is entertaining and educational as you will learn about the industrialization of Belfast.
The leading manufacturers of linen were found here. The old black and white, floor-to-ceiling photographs and descriptions of the manufacturing processes were fascinating.
Impressive photography display at The Titanic Museum, Belfast, Northern Ireland
Belfast became a hub for shipbuilding as demand rose in the early nineteenth century. We were surprised to learn the Titanic was merely one out of ten ships launched by the Harland and Wolff shipyard in 1911.
Titanic Hotel Belfast
For lunch, our hosts had suggested the restaurant at the Titanic Hotel Belfast, housed in the former office buildings of Harland and Wolff where the company drew the Titanic and many other Star Line ships.
It only took us a few moments to realize we were dining in the actual architectural drawing rooms.
The restaurant located in the former office buildings of Harland & Wolff in Belfast
It is a large bright room and we recognized it from the photos we had seen only moments ago in the museum. Apparently, all ship drawings were made on a scale of 1:1 and thus a bright spacious locale was required.
Photography Exhibit at the Hotel Titanic Belfast
If you visit or stay at the Hotel Titanic Belfast make sure to wander the hallways behind the restaurant and check the stairwells and meeting rooms.
In the former Harland & Wolff offices, you will find the most amazing photographs of the early nineteenth century Belfast, shipyards, and ships built during the era.
The photography exhibit in Hotel Titanic Belfast
Our friendly server provided suggestions and an Art and Heritage Trail brochure. For us, this exhibit was as fascinating as the actual museum due to our passion for photography.
As you step out into the late afternoon sun you realize how architecturally stunning the Titanic museum is. Another landmark on the Belfast horizon is Samson and Goliath, the two ship-making gantry cranes marked with H&W (Harland & Wolff).
Titanic Museum and SS Nomadic in Belfast
SS Nomadic
At the docks adjacent to The Titanic museum you can board the last remaining ship from White Star Line. This is included in the price of admission.
The SS Nomadic was built to transfer mail and passengers to the RMS Olympic and RMS Titanic from ports too shallow for the larger ships.
It was easy to get the vibe from The Titanic on board the SS Nomadic.
The design cues, the shape of the smokestacks, the wooden boards on the outside deck, the benches, and elaborate wood-carved interiors resemble the designs you would have seen on The Titanic. Di did a nice pose walking along the back deck.
Di is checking out the sunset onboard the SS Nomadic in Belfast
Final Thoughts
It is safe to say Northern Ireland won our hearts in so many ways. From the outstanding natural beauty along the Antrim Coast to the historical sites we toured around Saintfield and Belfast.
From the wonderful hospitality, we enjoyed with Janine and William, to the educational Black Cab Tour in Belfast. From Londonderry in the northwest to Slieve Croob in the southeast.
Northern Ireland has so much to offer. Do not just take our word for it. Go!
The H&W (Harland & Wolff) ship-making gantry cranes in Belfast
Travel Tips
We rented a small Nissan Micra Hatchback, which was fine for the roads we traveled.
Note if you travel from Ireland to Northern Ireland distances are measured in miles instead of kilometers.
Currency in Ireland is in Euros whereas in Northern Ireland they use Pound Sterling.
You drive on the left side of the road in both countries.
Our journey started in Dublin and we paid an extra fee of €35.00, $40.00, in order to take the rental car to Northern Ireland.
Stunning views from of the rugged north shore of Northern Ireland captured from Dunluce Castle
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Photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have made use of Fujifilm film simulations in this article.
